Aljo

Directly off the O2 sensor, I should be receiving the workshop manual tomorrow so hopefully that will show me where the pre cat. O2 sensor is and I could test for continuity between there and pin 29.

Yes you are right same driveline as the GTR and I think it is called the ATTESA System based on my googling hehe thx for the direction. Do these vehicles have All Wheel Steering? Have you any experience with installing an Air/Fuel Gauge? Just need someone to confirm pin 29 is the right pin. Thx for the feed back and input.

G'day everyone new to the forum and new owner of a 1990 R32 GTS4T 4 door. I have a lot of learning to do and a great list of questions. So I hope I can get some help with all the small to big plans I have for my R32 and get some questions answered. To begin I would like to thank everyone who takes the time to pass on their advice and opinions. I hope I can return the favour in the realm IT/technical support one day and even more so in person if you live in QLD Northside (Buderim Sunshine Coast here). I am currently waiting for the workshop manual to arrive in the mail and hope that a lot of light will be shed on a lot of my questions. But till then here goes. So to begin; I am waiting for delivery of my A/F Ratio gauge and my boost gauge so I am looking to get all wiring run to the locations I will mount them. I think I located the O2 sensor wire pin 29 on the ECCS here I check for 1v reading and fluctuations in the reading when I accelerate. Please confirm I have the correct wire. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpUKb2rBS4Q What is this thing at the rear looks like, 4WS? and these look like stereo related but what they are and what they do I do not know. This forum doesn't allow endless editing so most likely you will see multi posts outside the allotted editing time frame. I apologise for those it annoys.

So I have found these shocks on EBAY has anyone had any experience with them? Nissan Skyline R34 KYB Coilovers - Drift JDM Dish S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34 180 It looks like an awesome price but not sure on the spring rates and if it would be ok for daily driving

Question about cv joint shaft recondition rebuild. I was told that once the boots have been ripped for a while and grease is all gone and cv's start clicking, rebuilding them to a reconditioned level is a waste of time, what is peoples opinion of that?

Hi, How much for complete set for a R32 1990 GTS4T front and rear rotors shipped to Buderim Queensland?

Funny you should say that you are the 3rd person to say that to me. I am going to search for a Jap Import mechanic the mechanic I use his partner is friends with my wife and he has a different take on what passes for road worthy than other mechanics do or the laws in QLD differ from NSW and VIC which is where the other two people who said the same thing as you are from. Also he favors american muscle cars so I am not sure what his angle is. I am going to fix everything else then decide on where the steering rack stands on needing to be replaced. But good to know column spacer bush. So just out of interest what influenced your comment on the mechanic.

Sorry just realised from a couple of PM's I received I did not mention I live in Buderim Queensland Sunshine Coast and use the courier site http://www.interparcel.com.au/ to obtain the goods which requires suburb of pickup and packaged dimensions and weight so I can tally up full costs to do a deal. Thx for the current pm's. Click pictures for links to sale sites on Ebay. Regarding Front shocks and front drive shafts (cv shafts,joints & boots complete). 1st how do these shocks compare to stock ones? $430 with shipping buyout don't need rears but eventually I would so thinking on value per pair. GAZ Adjustable shock absorbers to suit NISSAN SKYLINE R32 1989 ONWARDS or SKYLINE R32 - FRONT ULTIMA STRUTS (SHOCKS) $220 pair shipped For the front drive shafts I found these forgot to link ebay page for them $165 with postage how do they measure up? Do they look ok?

I will be looking to start playing as soon as things aren't so busy for me a lot on with the new car, work and family life. But very interested in getting into it.

I I have returned the SSD's to single mode as I couldn't notice any speed improvements and wasn't happy with loosing TRIM I have 1 for OS and the other for games. I also over clocked a little more without increasing the voltage 100% stable. CPU-4501.09=102.3x44 MEM-1909.8MHz 9-10-9-27-2T (timings could get a little tighter just needs extra time to test) bench tests return better results on some tests with MEM @ 2133 stock timings so will look at tweaking timings at 2133MHz and see how that goes. But I need to game a little and post here on the forum (actually use the system, hehe)

So I am a proud owner of a 1990 Nissan R32 GTS4T 4 door RB20DET Auto just under 115,000kms and it has had the 100,000km service completed only couple of months ago (love manual but I needed a 4 door and this was the only one available that was also Turbo, the auto in this config is better than the manual imo as no loss of boost going through gears but sucks at take off but I can get it to drift, though to continue to link up drifts really need to power on and swing the car side to side to keep it loose and shift between 1st and second and ride that boost, really driving the car hard to drift a 4wd and would benefit from an increase in PSI). It has been looked over by the RWC mechanic and Pedders, somethings were found by both but Pedders found a few more. They really are the suspension specialists. So I need the following parts to complete RWC and just to bring the car to a good mechanically sound level. The links are just what I have found on ebay and am open to advise and other products. Front upper control arms with new bushes fitted was considering a pair of these http://cgi.ebay.com....#ht_3816wt_1163 I have been quoted $150 for a reconditioned pair of stock ones. These are the dimensions, are they suitable for the GTS4T? I thought $160 for pair shipping included wasn't bad. Don't want to pull off stock ones to check dimensions if I don't have too as I still need the car to get around in. Inner and Outer CV boots are worn and the grease is all gone and the joints have been damaged so are clicking I have been advise to change the complete CV shaft left and right. So both left and right front CV shafts, joints and boots required. Are these what I need? Rear tie rod end bushes (They look like a knuckle setup, they are the ones out at the wheel you can see it from looking under and behind the wheels) I will take some pictures and post. All discs need machining due to being worn, rusty & glazed but I have been told these are lipped and cannot be machined so looking to upgrade to a slotted vented pair thinking rears can stay stock style but need new discs. Front http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_632wt_1163 Rear http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_500wt_1180 not sure if slotted really needed for rears. Left hand front shock very firm near seized both front shockers advised to be changed. What is a good value for money pair? Left hand top shock mount requires replacing due to shock failure it has been taking the brunt of the absorption, should I change left and right or just the left damaged one is ok? If just left I am looking for stock one if both I saw these http://www.ebay.com....a#ht_500wt_1180 Front D Bushes worn need replacement (sway bar mount bushes) is this a set that will fix this? http://www.ebay.com....4#ht_1679wt_960 Light play in steering rack it PASSED for Pedders and RWC mechanic but they said should be looked at in the next 6 months, I think it is fine but wondering what a reco one will cost and is a 2WD rack different to a 4WD rack? Radiator hoses are hard and crunchy and need to be replaced. Found this http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1401wt_1163 are they correct ones. I need a Left dash heater air vent The CENTER GEAR CONSOLE SURROUND is cracked,pitted,melted by cigarette burn and chipped so was looking at this, seems pricey though, but the ad mentions more durable than stock one. http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1514wt_1163 Hoses behind radiator, in front of motor (oil cooler pipes) need new clamps. Hoses are slightly perished but not the cause of leaking it is the clamps that are at fault for leaking but they recommend changing hoses and clamps at same time and advised only need less than 1.5mtr of hosing to do, what is the dimension of the pipe that is required? I can pick up a length from super cheap unless there is a highly recommended alternative product. Rear under side has a little surface rust and they recommend treating it with fish oil anyone concur? Found this, is it needed? http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2406wt_1163 So supply of parts if any are for sale would be awesome but peoples advice both on parts choice, compatibility and pricing would be appreciated.

$97 for that case no PSU though oh I forgot to put PSU in Corsair HX850 v2 850W HD 1080P TV so resolution is good for a big panel dot pitch is ok not perfect but ok. I have a 23" HP 2311f and a Samsung SyncMaster 226BW as my extended displays the 42" is being used for a bit of a difference most likely go back to being a tv soon. I am a huge Samsung fanboy. I am not an el cheapo kind of person if I pay money it needs to be high end if not the best. Yes, I have to say I have not noticed any speed increase with the them in raid and possibly may have taken a hit on the slower side I will be switching to a single 2 drive config 1 for OS other for gaming will prob do it when I move over to win 8 as I just built this system and was OCing and tweaking and wanted to do that on a 100% stable OS. I never take a persons word over anything, I hear the advise weigh up the pros and cons to seeing it for myself and more often than not I see if I can tweak or mod it to work before I come to agree with their advise. The Intel SSD drives I own are the fastest drives I have ever owned and I used to run 4 raptor drives in raid 0 but I have not compared them against many other drives as they were also bought for the 5 year warranty. I will do some benches before I go back to single drive setup to have a comparison. If I find the time. Yeah I base my server data HDD purchase on $ / MB and the 2TB were the thing and the extra 2TB I have I will use in some second hand systems I have yet to build so no waste on them. I use Drive Bender to have the drive be a one drive pool without the risk of a raid setup. Very good piece of software.

Hi all I am new to the forum and new proud owner of a 1990 R32 GTS4T RB20DET 4 Door but I am a long time gamer, PC enthusiast, Tech, IT consultant and all round techno geek. Here is my rig setup/specs Lian Li LanCool PC-K60 Black Case Asus Sabertooth X79 Mobo Intel Core i7 3930K with Corsair H80 watercooling and Noctua fans throughout OC'd to 4444MHz just on multiplier 44 & Bclk 101MHz will push further when I have time to waste Take your pick Kingston HyperX 2133MHz DDR3 XMP 4x4GB (2 x 2x4GB Kits) watercooling kits or Corsair Vengeance 1866MHz DDR3 4x4GB 42" Samsung LCD TV HDMI connected 1920x1080 resolution. I want the Asus PB287Q 2560x1440 WQHD LED monitor when it comes out. Gigabyte ATI HD7950 3GB GDDR5 2 x Intel 520S 240GB SATA3 SSD in raid 0 config and 1.5TB Seagate as backup and storage drive Win7 Ultimate x64 Razer Nostromo, Nargunium notebook sized keyboard,Logitech MX518 mouse I have 8x2TB drives - 4 Hatachis and 4 Seagates but only using 5 of them atm in my media server need to buy expansion SATA3 PCIE x1 card for the rest but no need of them yet 4TB free space on current setup.