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Showing results for tags 'idle rough'.
I have a 1996 R33 rb25det I have searched everywhere and I see a lot of topics on this but nothing has really helped me First off I was having idle issues on start up. It was sitting around 500rpm so I changed my. Bov back to recirc starts good now. But still sitting around 700 which is fine.. But hadn't fixed properly. I'm still having problems coming to an intersection sounds like it's idle hunting. And it'll drop back down to 0 then bounce back up. I just have to keep the revs up to stop it from dieing. I've cleaned the iacv and adjustig the screw and that didn't do anything at all I've checked for vac leaks and nothing. My thought was maybe the maf but that's sweet. If anyone can help will be appreciated. Thanks:)
My r33 S2 RB25DET has a rough idle after about 10 mins of driving when warmed up. It goes from like 200 RPM to 1000 RPM and some times stalls Ive tried to fix it by cleaning the AFM buying new coil packs and spark plugs. Car is stock apart from pod filter and front mount inter cooler also have a boost leak getting about 4psI could this be linked to the idle by any chance
so, car is a 1996 s2 R33, RB25DET engine, running a PFC and aftermarket fuel rail. The unused centre cap of the rail had a fine leak spraying fuel out so pulled it out and put a new cap/seal on, and black Toyota FIPG on the threads cos it's a bitch to pull out and i don't want it to leak ever again. Rail/injectors are just on 6 months old (1/2 length Bosch ev14 960cc injectors). Had a real problem finding o-rings in stock though so only found new o-rings for the top (fuel) end of the injectors, and re-used lower manifold-end o-rings, which were still flexible/compliant. Starting it up this morning after finishing the job last night - no leak from the fitting, but now idling 18:1 + afr. Afr's go back to normal 14.7:1 range as soon as driving and up in the rpm range, it's just at idle, and is lumpy as a rotary too. I am thinking slight air leak through manifold-end o-rings on one or more injectors, enough to make it run lean, but any further thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Further info - when coilpack connections are pulled off one at a time it becomes a definite misfire, so all cylinders are still firing, just not fully/normally. - fuel pressure is still fine, 2.5bar at idle, changes under load/vac. - ign timing is still fine and 15 deg (Had tuned up idle and timing just before i did this job, was idling bang on 800-830rpm where i want it, and 15 deg timing). - new throttle body gasket was fitted too. - Only issue before doing this was the slight fuel spray/leak, the car itself was running freakin fantastic, and pulling out/refitting the injectors and rail was all that was done - apart from removing/refit all the other shizz you need to, to get to the fuel system.
Hi, So after towing my car on a car trailer it started to run really rough, it went to an alarm installer and got immobiliser, alarm, tracker installed but two days later it wouldn't even run. It kicks over but engine just won't actually start. The injectors are getting very low pulse and the crank angle sensor doesnt have a heap of spark when turn manually or via ignition, we've already had the alarm guys test it and they are adamant it isn't the immobilizer causing any issue. At the same time the spark plugs are now fouled, and two relays in the boot connecting to the twin fuel pumps have blown as well. Any ideas where to start looking? The ECU is a black box and there is a eflex sensor and AEM AFR cut in place which reports but then when trying to crank says sensor offline.