Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering if anyone has had any real difficulties drifting their stock cefiro?

Mine has everything else setup eg mech diff, coilovers, adj suspension links, clutch etc however ive run into some cash problems and cant afford any major power mods for a while. i dont wanna waste time and money taking it out to a practice day for it to be uncompetitive and a handful to drift, but also i dont want it to really sit around while i save up for mods.

engine mods so far only include a cat back exhaust and hybrid front mount. rest is stock. how much boost can the stock turbo handle and for how long under drift conditions?

cheers

Aden.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100037-drifting-stock-engined-cefiro/
Share on other sites

yeah what softy said, you don't need that much power to drift if you've got a nice suspension setup and diff, stock RB20DET's should give you enough oomph. The only gripe I have with ceffy's is their boat like swaying. Make sure its got a low center of gravity and rigid suspension and you'll be fine.

In any case you should give it a go. It'll give you a feel for the car, and you can then tweak the suspension till it handles the way you want it to. A lot of guys bleet on about "teh ultimate drift machine" which they're building up, but have never seen a second of track time.

cheers guys for the responses, ill definately be out at a practice soon to give it a go as soon as i can source some tyres. anyone interested in some 235/45/17s i got, or willing to swap for some 16 inch rubber?

any ideas also about how much boost thru stock turbo?

Stock rb20 in the cefiro would probably be your SAFEST bet.

Just wind the boost to say 10psi and go for a dyno run to make sure it isn't r+r'ing or running lean.

A lot of guys bleet on about "teh ultimate drift machine" which they're building up, but have never seen a second of track time.

Shhh.. tell noone.

go for it mate, youll luv it, if i were you though id go on a quiet search for a r32 rb20 turbs(slightly bigger) or even a rb25 turbs, as someone mentioned above though youll have lean out issues though untill you get it tuned but i would suggest 10-12 psi and go n buy a dump/front pipe :D (rb's sound great with screamer pipes :D )

i have no turbo and auto and i still make it drift, seriously drifting isn't about how much power you have or suspension it's about the heart you have n how much you can stick it to the MAAAAON

  • 2 weeks later...

They drift really nicely with standard power if you have a good set of coilovers and a 2 way, and a set of pineapples help too.

After some mods and a few gearboxes later I had mine running 195rwkw and it drifted really well it was an animal. RB20s sound really nice with a 3" exhaust with no cat or muffler :D

  • 1 year later...

Just got myself a stocker imported well almost completly stock, Came with jic all round,3" zorst, cuscu sturt brace and had been converted to manual i pressume because of the dash and the cruise controll switches, Engines a standard rb20det and shes a nice responsive handeling car i was really impressed didnt expect that much from it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...