Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does this CAI fit a R34 GT-T? After a clear lid one. I also have a Hybrid FMIC kit, hope this CAI kit doesn't fowl with FMIC piping. Would also like to know where CAI kit is getting its air intake from?

Cheers

still got a few clear lid airbox's :rofl:
  • Replies 116
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do you think it will fit in here without having to move my boost solenoid or alarm siren?

Does the shield go straight down at the back (side towards rear of car)? or does it angle in?

post-24130-1157373545.jpg

Do you think it will fit in here without having to move my boost solenoid or alarm siren?

Does the shield go straight down at the back (side towards rear of car)? or does it angle in?

Hey mate,

The boost solinoid is fine where it is, but the siren is definitly in the way of the back wall. The back wall goes straight down, sorry about that.

Hey mate,

The boost solinoid is fine where it is, but the siren is definitly in the way of the back wall. The back wall goes straight down, sorry about that.

:P DAMN, i tried to make my own, but it turned out pretty rubbish...

I might have to pay to get someone to move the siren, hopefully that can be done

If its not too expensive to move the siren I will buy both the rad. guide and the POD shield from you

Cheers

very keen on one made up for the R32 ;) I'm sure there are heaps of others out there too!

If ever there is one made up please PM me.

No one sells decent heat sheilds for the R32. there is plenty of money to be made. You should even consider selling this products to other shops for distribution!

If you have any still avaliable either clear or solid please let me know.

Can anyone confirm that it fits fine with the Blitz pod filters (the large stainless steel ones) pretty much exactly like "Trooper" .

Thanks Rob

sorry boys i dont have anything to suit the the r34 or r32 and as it stands i dont think i will be able to make one, as i dont have the tiem to redesign a new template.

im not sure if they will fit a non turbo, send me a pic of the engine bay and ill see if its the same as the turbo's.

RedLineGTR: yeap i definitly have clear lid heat sheilds ready for postage if you need one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...