Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle At 2000rpm

33SOM

By 33SOM,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

33SOM Experienced

33SOM

Posted
Posted

My car either idles at 2000rpm or it goes up and down between 1000-2000rpm very quickly.

Any ideas what the problem maybe?

Ive done the obvious things like change plugs/ swap coils with a mate/ adjusted tps etc but ive still got a problem :blink:

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

you cant adjust the timing of the idle in the powerfc, ie: editing load point 1x1 and adjusting the timing there. you can change the idle rpm. do you have access to datalogit? you could get someone to save your tune and do a full reset and let it learn the idle again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1827815
Share on other sites
33SOM Experienced

33SOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I meant the timing through settings/ ing/inj. Not changing it on the ignition map.

Ive tried initializing it aswell with no luck.

One thing I have noticed though is if I drive it gently it slowly gets better (2 hours of driving) But as soon as I hit the rev limiter it plays up again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1827834
Share on other sites
R32FOURDOOR Collaborator

R32FOURDOOR

Posted
Posted

i had this problem with my R32 i tried:

AFM-didnt work

AAC valve cleaned out-didnt work

Cleaned out throttle-didnt work

What i did was i got a second hand part (tpp unit i think, not sure)

Anyway, Its located on the side of the throttle butterfly as you look at the engine from the front of the car. a black box with two clips coming out if it.

First to see if its the problem start the car, disconect the plug that you can see easily(on the right side of the box as you look straight on to it) ur revs should clam down but not totally fix itself. if this happens thats ur problem. thats how i fixed mine.

Water usually gets into this black box (sorry about the name of it i just cant remember it)

Hope it helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1827899
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Nothing to do with the tps.

On the R32's its located below the throttle body on top of the inlet manifold... Has two hoses going in to it... On cold idle it opens up raising the rpm. Sometimes the spring flicks off and it stays open all the time holding rpm up even when warm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1827928
Share on other sites
33SOM Experienced

33SOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just cleaned the air reg and it didnt make a difference. I also tried bypassing it (same way my old setup was with out all the idle junk) and it still revs to the moon.

It just revs up and down between 1000-2000rpm.

Paul I think i do it right? Let it idle for 10mins, then switch on a/c for 10mins then the rear dimister?

I wish I had a holden....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1828016
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you pull it apart and ensure the spring was connected?

I set my pfc idle by doing the following....

Plug in the pfc.. :blink:

Disconnect the AAC plug. Adjust idle to as close as possible to the value within the pfc for a/c off.

Connect the aac plug. init the pfc. Send it through its learn process... Perfect idle. :P

Be sure the TPS is set to ~.46v

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1828023
Share on other sites
33SOM Experienced

33SOM

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yep and gave it a clean with CRC.

I just took a look on a 33 workshop manual and it says that the opening should be 3/4 open but mines 3/4 closed.

edit: ok thanks il give it a try like you said in the moring. I dont think the neighbours are to happy with me at the moment :blink:

Thanks again.

Edited by 33SOM
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1828045
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Yep and gave it a clean with CRC.

I just took a look on a 33 workshop manual and it says that the opening should be 3/4 open but mines 3/4 closed.

edit: ok thanks il give it a try like you said in the moring. I dont think the neighbours are to happy with me at the moment :blink:

Thanks again.

Check to see if its flopping around?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100274-idle-at-2000rpm/#findComment-1828102
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...