Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've never seen a GTS with an oversized cooler loose any thing

over a STD core, but as the turbo is usually changed at some

stage a big core is the best option,The GTSt I posted earlyer

has a 700HP core and is better everyware, not saying the car

would not have been better with a 400hp core, just look

at the future plan.

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are a number of people who have experienced a notable drop in response , even though they pick up horsepower, by fitting overly large intercoolers to stock turbos. Not everything performance wise is there on show on the dyno printout, unless your goal is to win dyno shootouts I would not take them as gospel.

Assuming you do plan to move on to bigger things later fitting a 700HP cooler for a planned output less than 700HP is pretty dumb in hindsight.

Looking at the future plan is all fine and dandy but, c'mon most of these guys still could have 'aimed' at some power figure. As they say ' aim at nothing and you hit it every time'.

Steve, I think you'd agree with me on the idea that a 44gal drum takes longer to fill than a 2L icecream container.

At some point an oversized intercooler loses the race against time to fill the volume in between the turbo and the plenum. The rpm for full boost is the same (therfore no lag, cause the turbo spools at the same engine speed). However the 'time' to achieve engine speed (which is greatly assisted by being on boost) is affected by the larger volmue and distance required by the oversized intercooler.

The stock intercooler is not real flash, even for the stock turbo, but if you are going to spend the best part of $2k on a replacement make damn well sure its the right size.

As you mentioned before the person with the 700HP intercooler would have been better off with the 400HP unit (if thats his eventual target). Maybe the 400HP unit was cheaper as well?

At the end of the day $2k spent on a 700HP intercooler(with std turbo) will put your car firmly in my rear vision mirror, with my poxy standard intercooler, over a 1/4mile, when our cars have the same mods. Get a 300HP unit plumbed up right and it is a different story.

Just want people to think about how important the size matching idea is.

Agree about the BOV too Steve.

BTW mate do you know the flow on the standard unported RB25DET head?

shuto-boy,

a BOV is a BOV, it's just that the factory one is quite good. I don't think an aftermarket one can't work as well fullstop. It's just that it seems difficult to do so (or selction of brand plays a part). If you like the noise thats what you have to do anyway I guess.

got it rev,thanks.Vspec,ure kidding right?how can anyone in the right mind produce that.Must be hot in the usa,they got lots of wierd stuff there.

Right now i got a 12 psi stock turbo+Fmic,going to change ecu soon,ill post some results

13.6

-outlaw racing team-

hate drugs,love racing

Steve,

It makes sense, the factory one has a small air bleed (hole on the underside) people mistake for the factory BOV not holding boost at light cruise due to it being so-called 'too lightly sprung for high boost apps'.

There is someone with a thread about blocking the hole off on the performance section!

rev, piss-off bitch. I'm not a ricer, the sticker are to add power, and the wing to keep my ass on the ground:lol:

I have already replaced the stock BOV, and don't have any issue with my aftermarket one, so I'll keep is, besides I love the sound:P

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...