Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudez

got a problem with my r32 gtst

yesterday at about lunch time, i had driven it for about an hour, just normal driving.

didnt drive it until about 9:30 pm. goto start up and it idles at about 1500rpm

goto drive it, it wont rev above 2500rpm, and when it hits 2500rpm, its like it hits the limiter, or like a fuel cut...but when i put my foot on the clutch it will rev, and the problem seemed to go away and i could drive home

played around with it for 20 mins and it seemed to be ok after i put my foot on the clutch and revved it.

drove home on the freeway and everything was fine until i put my foot down in 5th to overtake someone and it just coughed and spluttered and it was ok then i tried again and it just died in the arse and stopped, but it didnt stall.......

pulled over and revved it again, and everthing was ok, it would drive normally and wouldnt splutter or struggle

it did the problem again as i got off the freeway near my house.

now i have to drive my 31 again...it just isnt the same....

any help would be appreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100394-idle-problemshelp/
Share on other sites

hey dudez

got a problem with my r32 gtst

yesterday at about lunch time, i had driven it for about an hour, just normal driving.

didnt drive it until about 9:30 pm. goto start up and it idles at about 1500rpm

goto drive it, it wont rev above 2500rpm, and when it hits 2500rpm, its like it hits the limiter, or like a fuel cut...but when i put my foot on the clutch it will rev, and the problem seemed to go away and i could drive home

played around with it for 20 mins and it seemed to be ok after i put my foot on the clutch and revved it.

drove home on the freeway and everything was fine until i put my foot down in 5th to overtake someone and it just coughed and spluttered and it was ok then i tried again and it just died in the arse and stopped, but it didnt stall.......

pulled over and revved it again, and everthing was ok, it would drive normally and wouldnt splutter or struggle

it did the problem again as i got off the freeway near my house.

now i have to drive my 31 again...it just isnt the same....

any help would be appreciated

cheers

no one can help me???? im desperate to get it working.....

I had sorta problems like that with my GTR when i first got it. Ended up being a f**ked airflow metre. Sounds like yours is going in and out of being f**ked, like mine would, i think its age and heat. Unplug your airflow metre, and rev it, it should hit rev limiter at 2500 cause its in a safe mode. Might not be the problem, but it just sounds like it, also check your o2 sensor, it can cause problems too, just if your airflow metre is out, would be a good idea to check or replace your o2 sensor. Hope this can maybe help

Cheers

ok...pulled the afm out, found only one screw holding the plug in....put three more in.

plugged everything back together, still not revving over 2500rpm

pulled apart again....checked all the cooler pipes etc...couldnt see and split hoses, but couldnt see the pipes that actually go into the cooler..maybe they are split or loose there.....

also found that my rear muffler is totally f*kd....all the internals spat out....could this be the problem also???

i midas well change the exhaust but dont know what size or wateva....3" turbo back with hi-flow cat? how big of a muffler

cheers guys.....

  • 2 weeks later...
ok...pulled the afm out, found only one screw holding the plug in....put three more in.

plugged everything back together, still not revving over 2500rpm

pulled apart again....checked all the cooler pipes etc...couldnt see and split hoses, but couldnt see the pipes that actually go into the cooler..maybe they are split or loose there.....

also found that my rear muffler is totally f*kd....all the internals spat out....could this be the problem also???

i midas well change the exhaust but dont know what size or wateva....3" turbo back with hi-flow cat? how big of a muffler

cheers guys.....

No revs above 2500RPM = bad AFM.

Yeah, if the AFM is stuffed, it will not rev over 2500rpm (cuts fuel).

Plus it will be running limp home maps which are really rich, because it can't detect actual airflow due to the afm not working, so it will run like a bag of shit.

A quick check that will confirm this 100% is running the diagnostic mode to show fault codes on the engine warning light.

Edited by RB30-POWER
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...