Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Problems...help!

JVP

By JVP,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JVP Grand Master

JVP

Posted
Posted

hey dudez

got a problem with my r32 gtst

yesterday at about lunch time, i had driven it for about an hour, just normal driving.

didnt drive it until about 9:30 pm. goto start up and it idles at about 1500rpm

goto drive it, it wont rev above 2500rpm, and when it hits 2500rpm, its like it hits the limiter, or like a fuel cut...but when i put my foot on the clutch it will rev, and the problem seemed to go away and i could drive home

played around with it for 20 mins and it seemed to be ok after i put my foot on the clutch and revved it.

drove home on the freeway and everything was fine until i put my foot down in 5th to overtake someone and it just coughed and spluttered and it was ok then i tried again and it just died in the arse and stopped, but it didnt stall.......

pulled over and revved it again, and everthing was ok, it would drive normally and wouldnt splutter or struggle

it did the problem again as i got off the freeway near my house.

now i have to drive my 31 again...it just isnt the same....

any help would be appreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100394-idle-problemshelp/
Share on other sites
JVP Grand Master

JVP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey dudez

got a problem with my r32 gtst

yesterday at about lunch time, i had driven it for about an hour, just normal driving.

didnt drive it until about 9:30 pm. goto start up and it idles at about 1500rpm

goto drive it, it wont rev above 2500rpm, and when it hits 2500rpm, its like it hits the limiter, or like a fuel cut...but when i put my foot on the clutch it will rev, and the problem seemed to go away and i could drive home

played around with it for 20 mins and it seemed to be ok after i put my foot on the clutch and revved it.

drove home on the freeway and everything was fine until i put my foot down in 5th to overtake someone and it just coughed and spluttered and it was ok then i tried again and it just died in the arse and stopped, but it didnt stall.......

pulled over and revved it again, and everthing was ok, it would drive normally and wouldnt splutter or struggle

it did the problem again as i got off the freeway near my house.

now i have to drive my 31 again...it just isnt the same....

any help would be appreciated

cheers

no one can help me???? im desperate to get it working.....

jwah Collaborator

jwah

Posted
Posted

I had sorta problems like that with my GTR when i first got it. Ended up being a f**ked airflow metre. Sounds like yours is going in and out of being f**ked, like mine would, i think its age and heat. Unplug your airflow metre, and rev it, it should hit rev limiter at 2500 cause its in a safe mode. Might not be the problem, but it just sounds like it, also check your o2 sensor, it can cause problems too, just if your airflow metre is out, would be a good idea to check or replace your o2 sensor. Hope this can maybe help

Cheers

JVP Grand Master

JVP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok...pulled the afm out, found only one screw holding the plug in....put three more in.

plugged everything back together, still not revving over 2500rpm

pulled apart again....checked all the cooler pipes etc...couldnt see and split hoses, but couldnt see the pipes that actually go into the cooler..maybe they are split or loose there.....

also found that my rear muffler is totally f*kd....all the internals spat out....could this be the problem also???

i midas well change the exhaust but dont know what size or wateva....3" turbo back with hi-flow cat? how big of a muffler

cheers guys.....

  • 2 weeks later...
mabru Enthusiast

mabru

Posted
Posted
ok...pulled the afm out, found only one screw holding the plug in....put three more in.

plugged everything back together, still not revving over 2500rpm

pulled apart again....checked all the cooler pipes etc...couldnt see and split hoses, but couldnt see the pipes that actually go into the cooler..maybe they are split or loose there.....

also found that my rear muffler is totally f*kd....all the internals spat out....could this be the problem also???

i midas well change the exhaust but dont know what size or wateva....3" turbo back with hi-flow cat? how big of a muffler

cheers guys.....

No revs above 2500RPM = bad AFM.

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, if the AFM is stuffed, it will not rev over 2500rpm (cuts fuel).

Plus it will be running limp home maps which are really rich, because it can't detect actual airflow due to the afm not working, so it will run like a bag of shit.

A quick check that will confirm this 100% is running the diagnostic mode to show fault codes on the engine warning light.

Edited by RB30-POWER
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...