Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't see why a crank collar properly fitted would not be good enough for 500hp.  It costs half as much or less 'but I might as well throw $500 in the river since I'm rebuilding the engine anyway'.  Note sarcasm - not rudely meant, just easier to use.

Also those pistons will not likely be lighter will they?  More likely the opposite.  Dunno about the rods.

:P No offence taken. I don't really want to throw $500 away on anything either. It just seems to me that to go to all this trouble while the motor is out and so on, and then pop the 12yr old crank back in - which has had to be modified (possibly weakened at this point?) - in the scheme of things $500 was good insurance... but hey, that's exactly why I am asking the question - to see what others have done/think on this.

Pistons I thought were lighter going to the forged items over the stock cast ones -aren't they?

The crower rods are about 200g lighter than the stock rods. (recently another was done, and my engine builder weighed them both).. so all this means less stress on the crank I would think.

once you fit the collar etc its still gonna need to be machined before goin back into the motor.

thats where the new crank works out near enough to the same costings, without the wait of workshops :P

The weak point on that crank is the oil pump drive which the collar deals with.

How is the crank getting weaker with age? A new crank is never perfect anyway, it still needs some machining.

Also please note I tied your 500hp power figure to my statement.

Forged pistons are generally heavier than cast but you are making up for it with those rods - whether you need them or not is another story.

But I am not going as full on as someone building an outright race car either.

if this is so....you dont really need the motec and cdi....i have a brand new power fc pro which may suit your application better....could do a swap perhaps. pm me for a chat if your keen to work something out with me.

Edited by DiRTgarage
How is the crank getting weaker with age?  A new crank is never perfect anyway, it still needs some machining.

If cranks are anything like engine blocks, my understanding is that there are distinct advantages refreshing a used item from a metalurgy point of view, that is, the used item has already hardened and done any warping/etc.

Anyone more knowledgable then me (ha! that's not hard :)) care to comment?

The weak point on that crank is the oil pump drive which the collar deals with.

How is the crank getting weaker with age?  A new crank is never perfect anyway, it still needs some machining.

Also please note I tied your 500hp power figure to my statement.

Forged pistons are generally heavier than cast but you are making up for it with those rods - whether you need them or not is another story.

Fair enough. I suppose it was just my thought that perhaps the crank may have suffered some fatigue over that time. If not, and in keeping with what Lucien says about the metallurgy point of view - perhaps it is better to simply keep that one?

I'm all for saving the money if it really is no advantage.

if this is so....you dont really need the motec and cdi....i have a brand new power fc pro which may suit your application better....could do a swap perhaps. pm me for a chat if your keen to work something out with me.

:( Cheers for that, but I guess I meant I am not a "no limit to budget, out and out race car". I still intend to be 'racing' as much as I can.

Part of the reason I have Motec and CDI is because that what my tuner is most familiar with, and secondly - he sponsored me. :( He probably wouldn't like me to give it away like that. But thanks for the offer anyhow. Now if you want to swap a veilside front bar for that nice stock one you have - that's something I'd be interested in! :D

Forged pistons are generally heavier than cast but you are making up for it with those rods - whether you need them or not is another story.

I just weighed the stock pistons in at 440grams - and the JE replacements are 335grams according to the specs.

25% less, or 100grams per pot saving - using this particular piston. Got to be good.

Take another 200grams off per rod and the crank surely is having a better time of things at 8000rpm - not to mention the faster spin up time?

I just weighed the stock pistons in at 440grams - and the JE replacements are 335grams according to the specs.

25% less, or 100grams per pot saving - using this particular piston. Got to be good.

Take another 200grams off per rod and the crank surely is having a better time of things at 8000rpm - not to mention the faster spin up time?

I notice your using JE pistons what made you choose these?

I ask because I have a dilema of using JE's which I got at a good price or sourcing Weisco's which have teflon coating from the factory, which apparently are a closer fit and less noisy from cold start.

All advice appreciated.

Edited by Sinista32
I just weighed the stock pistons in at 440grams - and the JE replacements are 335grams according to the specs.

25% less, or 100grams per pot saving - using this particular piston. Got to be good.

Take another 200grams off per rod and the crank surely is having a better time of things at 8000rpm - not to mention the faster spin up time?

Well that's interesting. Has anyone got a pic of the JE piston lying around?

Do they have short skirts?

I went for the wiseco's recently for the abovementioned reasons basically. Teflon coated skirts from factory, clearances are smaller than some, fairly quiet compared to some, nice long skirts for keeping square in the bore, not expensive.

This weight saving says to me you have even less reason to get a new crank.

Just my opinion.

Well that's interesting.  Has anyone got a pic of the JE piston lying around?

Do they have short skirts?

I went for the wiseco's recently for the abovementioned reasons basically.  Teflon coated skirts from factory, clearances are smaller than some, fairly quiet compared to some, nice long skirts for keeping square in the bore, not expensive.

This weight saving says to me you have even less reason to get a new crank.

Just my opinion.

Yeah I hear what you're saying. Perhaps the JE are thinner and/or have shorter skirts. (I've always preferred shorts skirts.. not just in pistons either...)

I'll have to see if I can get hold of one and post some pics. I don't think the JE have any coatings like the Wiseco's either... I was thinking of having them ceramic coated - but thats just the top, not the skirts.. How much are the Wiseco's?

I notice your using JE pistons what made you choose these?

Frankly, it was just what my engine builder suggested. He's always had a like for the JE stuff. I once used them in a V8 too. But to be honest - I'm sure the Wiseco are probably just as good. And I like the sound of the teflon... I'll ask him about it and see what he thinks, but I know he did say that most 'good forged pistons' these days are all very good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...