Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hey everyone

I'm just looking for a bit of advice, yesterday the engine in my R32 GTS-t died something shot out the bottom of the engine, a piston or something I don't know. Now because the boyfriend was driving it, he feels really bad and said he will pay for the new engine to get put in now i have the decision of if I want to put the standard engine in or something else!!! And also who am I going to get to put it all in??? If anyone knows someone good on the Gold Coast it would be great if you could give me the name!! I would be willing to go to Brisbane if I have too (though I don't really want to go to Brisbane).

So if anyone can help please do!!! Thanks

Jade. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100886-jadles-engine-died/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

damn :P Did think it wasn't looking too healthy with the amount of blowby when I was checking that AFM problem a couple of months back.. but didn't really want to get u worried.

I think best solution may be an RB25 halfcut and go that route.. may cost $1000-2k more will add to the sellability of the car as well if you guys decide to sell it later on.

A few dudes are always after little bits and pieces for the rb20 which u can sell eventually for $50 here, $100 there, etc (head, turbo, injectors, loom, ecu, etc)

I hear J's Garage is the ducks nuts!

Even to do the wiring and computer if I want to put an rb25 in it!!! (Which I'm considering)?? That would be good if he could do that'

J's garage has access to someone who has just done all of this :P

I had a quote for a half cut of a R33 gtr 1996 to buy and to get installed for $6,000 including engine, turbo, wiring, intercooler, brakes, ummm i'm forgetting something but yeah, what do we think of that???

I don't really want to put the rb20 back in i was going more for the rb25 though I want the right person to install it!! I always get ripped when I take it to get serviced so I know i'll get ripped doing this job!!

Even to do the wiring and computer if I want to put an rb25 in it!!! (Which I'm considering)?? That would be good if he could do that'

I did this conversion myself in June last year and can highly recommend it. With the stock turbo the RB25 offers great low down punch. I wired up a 'Plug 'n' Play' loom to enable the use of the factory ECU. With a PFC and a little more boost you will have a reasonably quick streetcar.

If you do choose the RB25 option though, I would recommend looking for a motor out of an R33 and not the stagea as there appears to be a little more involved in wiring up the loom to run off the stock ECU (I looked at it recently for a guy in Perth).

I am about to wire up a loom for a another member of SAU who is going to put an RB25 in his cefiro and I will be taking pics of the process (I placed some less detailed pics of my loom in my members gallery).

If you would like assistance with any aspect of the conversion feel free to drop me an email or PM. I took plenty of pics of my conversion so I can forward them to you.

Hope this helps.

Ben

Jay, have your man go with you for quotes, especially at some places mentioned, cause as sad as it sounds some places treat women differently.

As for where I go its a little different considering they were my girlfriends mechanics before mine, and I am glad they do cause I hate wanker mechanics!!!!

If you have something bad to say about a company that has been mentioned in this thread, please pm the person with your issues instead of slandering business on a public forum.

Slander - A type of defamation. Slander is an untruthful oral (spoken) statement about a person that harms the person's reputation or standing in the community

Now that we have the correct definition of Slander posted above, I have no issue posting what happened in my case as its true, not an untruthful statement.

I have no doubt in my mine Gavin Wood knows more then his fair share when it comes to GTR’s and tuning how ever his poor customer service lack of interest and knowledge with engine conversion cars and his silly price’s makes one wounder.

He had nothing but issue’s with trying to tune a 600hp RB converted car, charged a silly amount for a SAFC tune that he didn’t do due to a bad senor - You’d think you would charge for pointing out the problem, not charging to tune a car you didn’t and admitted to not tuning eh.

From other peoples comments in person, on this site in the past and on other forums he appears to have no interest in pretty much nothing that’s not a GTR nowadays, yet he calls him self the “Skyline expert”..

Edited by Nismo_Boy
Jay, have your man go with you for quotes, especially at some places mentioned, cause as sad as it sounds some places treat women differently.

As for where I go its a little different considering they were my girlfriends mechanics before mine, and I am glad they do cause I hate wanker mechanics!!!!

Yeah, wanker mechanics are the worst! :)

I think I'm going to go with the RB26 it a half cut of the R33 1996 gtr and bought and installed for $6,000 including after market intercooler, brakes, turbo, wiring, computer (i don’t know if i want to change my computer though) and yeah!!

I'm having a look at it today!!

One of the SAU members mentioned a mech that I'm going to look into too!!!

Thanks for all the tips guys. If there is any more info you can give me that would be great.

Thanks BH_SLO32 I would be shit to do that and there is no way I would let the bf do it, and i don’t think my insurance would like that!!

Who does engineers plates too?? Would they approve this conversion??

There is no need for an engineers plate(afaik) because r32 did come out with an rb25 as well.

but, that being said, i would recommend it anyway, make it look more legit and less likely to be picked on for mods if its been done right, and approved.

as for the rb26conversion.....that is a great engine to throw into a gts-t....untill you break it, then you'll wish you got a 25....they are soooo much cheaper to fix/replace.

6k would get you a weapon 25, or a stock 26...

also with the 25 you can use most if not all the boltons you already have...with the 26 you are starting from scratch.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...