Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Anyone know what the X-Force turbo back exhaust systems that JustJap sell are like?

I noticed that they come with an adjustable silencer... Do they cut power down heaps? I'm assuming you would have to balance it between power and noise...

Any feedback is helpful.

Thanks,

Dave.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100895-x-force-exhausts/
Share on other sites

Ok lets have a look here.. the x-force exhaust is about $600 excluding a CAT.... another $200 for a half decent CAT and another $100 - $200 for fitting... so approx $1000 for a bolt on cheapish system... Personally you could spend approx the same kind of money you can get an exhaust shop to custom make a 3" mandrel bent exhaust, high quality dump and high-flowing CAT and you can also angle the cannon the way you want it... get 2 years warranty and is MUCH better quality... thats my 2 cents...

If your in the sydney area i will be more then happy to help anyone with getting them a great deal on a custom exhaust system from liverpool exhausts... what have you got to lose?? let me know if your intrested..

Regards,

Sarkis

They are good for the price, see link below for a thread I started on the Xforce systems about a year ago - heaps of info and a long review.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=54115&hl=

Friend had an X-Force titanium on his S15. Not bad for the money, the welds were a bit shit through and after a couple of times of scraping the ground ripped apart. You get what you pay for I guess though, so overall it was pretty good :P

I have a stainless Xforce exhaust on my s15. Because they are a mass produced item the fit is very average. I am going to get a custom cat back made up that will quieten it down and will fit a whole lot better. I just find it a bit noisy as well.

That said, a friend of mines r33 gtr has a 3.5in xforce from the turbo back which is nice and quiet and the note is perfect along with the fit.

If you are planning on purchasing one to run the silencer in it all the time I would stick with a stock exhaust. The level of back pressure the silencer creates can often be more than a stock exhaust.

An exhaust is only as good as its smallest orifice.

FYI - The custom catback I am having made up is mild steel with a stainless cannon and a very high quality straight though centre muffler (which will do almost all the work. Cannons do very little!). Cost is $600.

Hope that helps.

James

I picked up an Xforce turbo back 3" system for $650 including hi flow cat and stainless cannon. Fitting was about another $200.

The silencer cuts down the noise noticeably, but looks like shite. Without the silencer it was tested at *just* under the legal db limit at the specified rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...