R30

[R30kc70UGE]

Due to it being the Only Hatch Skyline to my Knowledge(and i want a Hatch) i have recently Came Across one that i like in perticular But Before Buying i was Curious If anyone Knew My Options My plans where as Follows:

L24 injected conversion To --- Any body know a Simple Conversion with 150 BHp easily obtainable Torque a Must.

the R31 to s13 coilover setup is this Just as Easy to do with the R30 to s13?

some Serious Camber How is this Obtainable with this Car?

Machine The Setup For the Castor Rods So that with added washed/spaces comes More CAMBER!

Bucket seats, remove Rear Seats and all Temp Gauges Neccasary

Further Forwared Positining of Lights With Better Globes.

Respray.

some R33 Tailights (rice i know *hangs head in shame*)

ANd watever else Comes To mind.

any ideas Are Welcome and Help Is also Very welcome i dono much about the Interchangability Of the R30 heard there similar To the Laurel

Edited January 21, 2006 by R30kc70UGE

[blind_elk]

I have one of these myself. I'll fill you in on what I know, from having done it, having heard about it, or having head about / done on another model Nissan.

Power Up - fit a R31 X-member, then any of the RB-series engines will fit. But that will require a new gearbox and modified tail shaft. Alternatively, an upgrade to a L28 (280ZX) engine, upgraded camshaft + extractors, might come close to what you are chasing.

Camber - By relocating the pickup point of the lower control arm, you can possibly crank some camber into it (but probably not "serious" camber). Others have been known to bend the strut at the stub axle connection (I think that's it, but never witnessed it)

You won't get more camber by changing the castor. If you fit LJ Torana castor rods IIRC, you effectively get adjustable castor rods, because the threaded section is too long.

Hope that gives you some ideas.

[rsx84]

mate, some of the things your looking to do are an ask, unless you have $$$,

Engine swap with torque?? L24et, L28et, rb30et perhaps but the rb30 may site too high to close the bonnet, you may want to look into a vg30et ($$$) or a rb30de if you don't mind N/A..

Camber, correct adj strut tops for an r30 are a great start plenty of camber there, depending on the amount of chamber you are looking for and the tyre budget you have. you can always change other components later.

seats you can transfer the hr31 seats to the r30 rails but they will sit higher than normal, $250 will get you a brand new seat rail that is lowered and you can mount any aftermarket seat on them, mine arrives in the next few weeks for japan, you can get a recaro one ordered at autobarn for $400.

the rest your asking about are things you don't need advice on, removing the rear seat is what, undo bolts and remove.

the r33 lights ??? your better off looking for a set of HR30 hotplates or DR30 ones as it would cost more to convert the wiring and fit the r33's than its worth, couple of hundred at the most to get a set of DR30 tail lights from japan, or even here, that are in 100% A1 condition, then you just put them in no mucking about..

heres a link to a set for sale on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R30-Skyline-Hot-Pla...1QQcmdZViewItem

i think you'll find the laurel is more r31 than r30 if anything..

Edited January 7, 2006 by rsx84

[Jono_c210]

a guy i know had one with a RB20DET in it, went har and looked niiice with a big frontmount and those round tail lights on it. im guessing they were DR30 tail lights..

[stagefumer11]

Since you have a L serries motor , you do not need to swap the X-member over to fit a RB serriers motor

Id say go with a nice L28. GEt a early l28e . And grab a l20et, Ecu loom ect, and find some larger injectors. Will go very well

[R30kc70UGE]

thanks you guys have been Heaps of Help any info On the S13 coilovers to R30, HotPlates From a HR30 From the Wreker Fitting when Car gets Here On teusday .

[R30kc70UGE]

New pics up!

[discopotato03]

Need more positive castor not statric negative camber , that way you get the negative camber only when you need it ie when you turn the wheel . Much cheaper , much more effective . Ask Stu Wilkins to get some real ones made from the right grade steel , substitutes have been known to break and when they do its curtains in no uncertain terms .

BMW started this caster trend with E30's which were the M3's raced out here many years ago - it works .

[R30kc70UGE]

Can you pM me more On this castor Info, where to get them made up, how Much castor they give and so on and so forth?

[discopotato03]

Can you pM me more On this castor Info, where to get them made up, how Much castor they give and so on and so forth?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Made from 60T steel whatever that is and fitted to any serious Datsun rally car .

When you increase positive caster both wheels assume a camber in the correct direction . Outside wheel goes negative and inside goes positive which is what you want . What happens when the wallys use heaps of static negative camber and little positive caster is the inside wheel (relative to the corner) stays partially negative , so only about 1/3 of the available tread width is on the deck and not using its full grip potential . This shows up as unevenly worn tyres on the inside because when the outside tyres grip threshold is reached the inside tyre is dragged across the tarmack in understeer mode .

I use 1/2 deg negative camber and ~ 6 deg positive caster , I have 205/55/16 front tyres on my DR30 and 225/50/16 rear tyres and the front easily outgrips the rear . The limit of positive caster is how heavy you can stand the steering being . At 6 mine is reasonable with pwr steer but not so hot for armstrong power steer !

Most modern cars use lots of positive caster which is why they have neutral or even positive static camber and they don't understeer off the road like the old dinosaurs did with positive camber . Easy fix this because you don't need the dramas of adjustable spherical bearing strut tops just the adjustable caster rods and a wheel alignment . Turn in is brilliant for an early 80's car . Also have the toe set to 0 ie no in or out . Noltec or nolathane caster rod bushes are good as well .

Cheers A .

[Ghostrider]

Need more positive castor not statric negative camber , that way you get the negative camber only when you need it ie when you turn the wheel . Much cheaper , much more effective . Ask Stu Wilkins to get some real ones made from the right grade steel , substitutes have been known to break and when they do its curtains in no uncertain terms .

BMW started this caster trend with E30's which were the M3's raced out here many years ago - it works .

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A,

Stu Wilkins doesn't have any, cause I have had them on order foir months and months, but they are coming he assures me.

I will post when I know they're available and polyurethane bushes are a must with his style of adjustable caster bar. Stu's castor bars are about $180.00 pair.

For interest, I can get chrome plated adjustable caster bars made, special order for about $350.00 pair, same as attachment, like Jenesis does in Japan.

I can do these bars for a bit better but would need about 6 pairs on firm order if interested.

D