Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

***ENGINE NOW SOLD, PLEASE SEE LAST POST RE: WHATS LEFT***

I've got all the bits from an RB25 DE front cut (plus some other bits).

I was going to build a RB30det, but my new project says no :O

Its pretty much all the bits you need, bar a turbo, some machine work and assembly is required of course. Cubes wrote a great how to on this motor :)

I'm chasing around $1300 for all the below parts, if you'd like to make an offer, PM me and we will see how it goes. This includes delivery to Melbourne, Sydney or Canberra via a trailer to your door.

The front cut was worth around $2000, plus there is 3 years worth of R32 modification leftovers.

The obvious RB25 DE head (still attached to the rest of the motor). In good condition, and from a healthy motor that still would run (if it was in a car).

Oh, and for the record the obvious RB30 block IS included. I've got two if you'd like them both. You could build a V12 by strapping them together! awesome.

I'd really rather sell the whole lot - I have run out of room in my garage, and I don't need any of this stuff :) I imagine you don't need it all either, but it could be sold for profit. .

If you really just want the head or bottom end, or both pm me and we will talk.

Below is a list of all the other parts you'll get.

Car showed 88XXX kms, which was about right I'd say.

Auto GTS Dash in great condition

A/C "radiator" (I think its called a condensor - the thing that sits at the front)

A/C compressor, lines and all that stuff (no gas of course)

Heater box from behind the dash

Ashtry (with woodgrain for some reason)

RB 25DE bottom end, in great conditon

RB25DE Computer .

Auto gearbox computer -

Coil packs x 6. Checked them over and they look ok, no cracks or anything..

Suits RB20DE, RB20DET, RB26DETT and S1 R33 GTS-T and RB25de of course (also your new RB30)

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine)

Glovebox

Surround for cluster

Kick panels (both sides)

Steering arms from both sides (with stock suspension in good nik - no leaks) they are 4 stud though)

Steering Rack

ABS module

Induction pipes/air box (whole thing) (suits turbo car or NA) WITH AFM

Radiator in A1 condition (no bent fins - same as a turbo one)

All plastics from around the front of a 33 (wheel arches and splash gaurds and stuff)

Brake lines (all of the metal ones)

Auto gearbox fom the above car, Gearbox is in good condition with around 88000 kms on it. Its the same model as a turbo one, so if you struggle with your left foot, it'll be right up your alley.

Apparently its a 5 speed too, I'm not sure but thats what I was told when I bought it. Either way it appears in good nik.

Also have a VL N/A head, enjoy that as your new boat anchor!!!

Any questions you can PM or mail me.

Cheers!!!

you may just want to include wether this is an RB25de from an R32 or R33.

r33 ones have VVT and ot suitable for R32 owners...

good luck

Thanks for that - I didn't know.

The car was a S2 R32 GTS with the 2.5 DE motor. (1992 model).

sorry for the double reply.

but this line from your add.

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine)

is that a typo?

is it meant to be R32?

if it is supposed to be an R32 (since all the other parts seem to be), then I will buy the 3 air con vents from you..

let me know please.

Na, thats an oddball bit that popped up in amongst everything.

Anyhow, it appears the two engines are gone, so I'll separte all the rest of the parts next week in a new ad with some piccies.

P.S. Nice sig!! LMAO

ENGINE IS NOW SOLD!!!!

These are all R33 bits from another auto car that was here for a while :)

Speedo, Tacho and all that jazz (showing very low kays) - $50.00

A/C "radiator" (I think its called a condensor - the thing that sits at the front) $40

A/C compressor, lines and all that stuff (no gas of course) $20

Heater box from behind the dash $20

Ashtry (with woodgrain for some reason) $whatever you like

RB25DE Computer . $40

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine) $50

Glovebox $20

Surround for cluster $20

Kick panels (both sides) $20

Steering arms from both sides (with stock suspension in good nik - no leaks) they are 4 stud though) $100

Induction pipes/air box (whole thing) (suits turbo car or NA) $100

RB20 AFM $80

Radiator in A1 condition (no bent fins - same as a turbo one) $50

All plastics from around the front of a 33 (wheel arches and splash gaurds and stuff) $20

Brake lines (all of the metal ones) $20

Also have a VL N/A head, enjoy that as your new boat anchor!!! This is free to a good home :D

Any questions you can PM or mail me.

Offers accepted :) This stuff just needs to go :)

Cheers!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...