Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 is bigger... r32 feels lower and thinner...

both feel responsive when you floor it (r32 "feels" quicker coz its lower to the ground etc)

r32 interia feel older but still has quality

r33 feels like a new car and has good quality

both stick to the road but that depends on what suspension youll have

round corners r32 feels "more combined with the car" (as in all wheels are close to you, also kinda feel you know the back end is close... ?)

round coners r33 feel large and you think about the back end not hitting the curve or whatever coz it feels far away.

but when you get used to the car cornering isnt a proberlem.

hmmm personaly i like the aura the r33 gave off when boosting down a street. coz it feels big and the induction going off etc.

the r32 feel small and nible with some power but not a monster...

all my personal feeling when i take these cars for a drive...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1856170
Share on other sites

In terms of all round value, the R33 GTST would be the go.

I've owned both, the R33 is slightly quicker, has a better engine (you may find the RB20 torqueless), is more practical, better handling, better interior. Looks are perhaps the only thing questionable, some ppl reckon they look to0 big. But..i like all Skylines.

So in terms of investing money, the 33 would be the smarter choice, less money for a newer car, plus because of the high number of them going around, the prices are very low at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1857214
Share on other sites

i like the r32 fair bit ahead of the r33 these days, in terms of driving.. and how it feels to me in terms of handling.. But the interior of them is pretty dated now.

With the R32 it never really feels like the end is going to let go, and you are always fully in control. With the r33 its a bit less predictable to me, and can be a handful on tap, easy to lose. This could have a lot to do with the 2.5L giving more torque down low than the 2L . Only way I'll be able to determine that is when I've got the same engine in my R32 and compare the chasis differences with the same drivetrain :P

I've had an r33 for 2 years, had my r32 for one year. Just handling wise, I can do a lot more than the R33, without requiring quite the same outright power.

But to be honest, unless you are going to be driving like a madman all the time, just get an R33.

There are also 50 threads on this topic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1857280
Share on other sites

I'm pretty much in the same bote.

Selling my nx now and will have about 14k to spend on the car + I guess about 2k for insurance (23yo, perfect record max NCB, sydney). So my choices are r33 (series1), r32 (year 1992-1993) or 1993 180sx...

Not sure about 180sx as my friend already has 200rwkw 180 and it does fly low, but I just don't want second 180 in the company :P also I don't really like the front end...

That's funny that r32 and r33 cost pretty much the same now, but I'm looking more at r32 as I've heard from different people that it's a b!tch to sell r33. So as I understand now depresiation of r33 is much bigger and I don't want to be 5k down in couple of years...

just my 2c.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1858470
Share on other sites

It really depends on what catches your eye more. They both perform very similar stock. Personally I went for a 33 but I wanted a series 2 as there are so many series 1's on the road and its hard to look different in a 33. Having said that in my area I very rarely see a 32 on the road or 32 GTR for that matter considering how many were imported in under the 15yr rule.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1859015
Share on other sites

the 15 yr old rule will effect R33s in the next couple of years wont it? i can see R32s going for next to nothing when that stage comes up.

hmmmm... what about modding wise, how have you people found that?

lol.....man the 15yo rule is over. You're bit behind with the times :lol:

If anything, 32s will hold value until more of them start coming in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1859319
Share on other sites

lol.....man the 15yo rule is over. You're bit behind with the times  :lol:

If anything, 32s will hold value until more of them start coming in.

i thought once the R33s are 15yrs + older wont more of them be imported for cheaper? whats the new go with the import laws then?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1859836
Share on other sites

i thought once the R33s are 15yrs + older wont more of them be imported for cheaper? whats the new go with the import laws then?

Well that would have been the case, if the laws were still in place.

But as of January 1, DOTARS stopped issuing import approvals for 15yo cars, i.e 1991 and onwards. You can still import under this rule, but only older vehicles.

So yeah, now R32s can only come in through the RAWS scheme and only a few workshops have plates at the moment, i think only in QLD/NSW.

Which means, people will ultimately be importing less R32s as it would cost pretty much the same as importing an R33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101476-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-1859859
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...