Jump to content
SAU Community

Heating Issues With Rb20det In Silvia

RB20DET_Silvia
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB20DET_Silvia Collaborator

RB20DET_Silvia

Posted
Posted

Hey Lads,

I got a RB20DET with twin thermo fans on radiator no air con condenser or anything all ripped out when driving my temp gauge reads....60-70 degrees which i think is a little low but once the car starts to sit in traffic it will jump right up to 90 degrees and start to over heating and start boiling the radiator fluid and spitting it out the over flow tank etc....

Im wonder i have a R33 Radiator in my car also would would be the best way of keep my car cool....vents in bonnet.

What about a new thermo stat that opened up earlier what would this help with.....can i please get some good import as with what to do about my position im in.

Im also putting in new knock sensors as mine are dead dont think this has anything to do with the heating issues but.

Thanks.

- Luke :(:):D

DC_GTST Experienced

DC_GTST

Posted
Posted

Another basic option is to hook one of the fans to a switch and just turn it on when the car is in traffic, i have it for hot nights and particularly warm days, if its gets any hotter than 1/2 then the other one kicks in due to the thermostat. But of late i did have a few issues with the radiator :(

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

If it's not overheating when driving around, but does when in traffic then your issue is most likley the thermos.

What size are you running and how are they configured?

Ideally you want to get the biggest fan(s) you can fit purely because they can blow/suck a lot more air than a smaller one (davies craig claim that a single 16 can flow more air than a pair of 12's).

Also, the fans can have the blades flipped over and the polarity of the wiring reversed depending on how its mounted. It would be a good idea to check that they have been set up correctly for your mounting style.

And last. Most fans seem to do a better job when blowing air through the radiator rather than sucking it through. If you can mount your fan infront it may help a bit too.

And flush your radiator while you are at it.

Good luck, overheating sucks arse.

RB20DET_Silvia Collaborator

RB20DET_Silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have 2 fans mounted on the frount of my radiator....i think i might need a new thermo stat as car runs on 70 when general driving but over heats in traffic etc.....

Might have a switch to turbo fans on and off for general driving then when slamming it turn them back on.

- Luke

LO_R33 Proficient

LO_R33

Posted
Posted

If your really worried about it, take the thermo stat out of the car, and order a new one from nissan... my thermo stat is ruined so i just took mine out as im waiting for it to come from japan,with a few other parts. Car just takes a little longer to heat up thats all... not good for long term, but i figure its better then having the gauge on H the entire time (i.e cooking the engine)

Dayne

RB20DET_Silvia Collaborator

RB20DET_Silvia

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine does not cook but it will if i let it.....driving around daily its cold but not in traffic....i think i need a thermostat to make my car run hotter at like 70-80 degrees normal driving and for it to stay under 100 when i smash it.

- Luke

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You're absolutely sure they work when the engine's running? And you're absolutely sure they BLOW air through the radiator?

I doubt the thermostat has anything to do with it overheating. If it was going to overheat, it's more likley to do it when the engine is working hard, not when it's just sitting idling.

The standard thermostat is supposed to be around 78C, IIRC.

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

Err..... have you changed the radiator yet or had it checked out yet? My mate had the same problem. We ended up changing the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, reflushed the cooling system and check the thermo-fans before we changed the radiator. I work at a delearship and the first thing you should do if you have overheating issues with those symptons should be to replace the radiator or have it fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...