Jump to content
SAU Community

Axle Trampin And 60' Time


Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Want to say a thank you to alot of you for helpful information found in these pages. Went out to willowbank for the first time tonight and did 9 runs. Happy with the result. Got a best time of 14.4 with a 60' of 2.3 at 99MPH.

soooooo, AXLE TRAMP. whats the story. That huge shuddering feeling like things are gonna snap on ya. What can I do to ease it?

Basically was dropping clutch from 4g and riding it a little. dropped from 3 it just bogged. dropped it from 5 and wheelspin for a 60' of 2.8 (though had fastest speed of 100 MPH)

tyres were shiite falken 205's at 24 psi. got low king springs and bilstein struts. (r33s1)

What steps should I try next time I'm going out for runs as far as launch and tyres to get that good 60' and hopefully get into 13's? I'm pretty sure it has the power to achieve these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's pretty much exactly what i run.

Try running 20psi in your tyres and for the launch, launch it at 5000, ride the clutch a bit and feather the throttle to ease the wheel spin.

I get 2.25 60' with a sheit load of wheel spin off the line, just gotta ease up on the right foot at the start :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

last time out I was getting bad axle tramp as I had rooted old shocks and kings springs... was keeping my 60ft to 2.3 - 2.4 secs which meant I couldn't bet better than a 13.7

...was even tramping into second which is REALLY annoying... (may have been made worse by the Nankangs but I think the shocks are the main culprit)

Have got Bilstiens in there now with the camber fixed up and the subframe bushes set for grip so am hoping for a flat 2.0 60ft next time I head to Calder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The words "axle tramp" and "Bilstein" are not something I would normally see used together. It might pay to give them a quick check, look for top seal oil leaks, that is usually the first sign.

My best guess would be subframe bushes, for around $100 and 1/2 an hour to DIY fit they are a worthwhile upgrade. As posted above, set for max squat they make a noticeable difference.

Then it's wheel alignment time, particularly rear camber. Kings lows tend to result in 1.25 to 1.5 degrees static negative camber, which is much more than is ideal for the drags. The standard rear camber adjuster are only good for around 0.25 degrees of adjustment. To get to the more launch friendly zero camber you will need a set of adjustable camber bushes. For around $150 plus $100 to fit (not DIY) they will maximise the tyre contact patch.

Hope that was of some help

:huh: cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all very much for your responses. Just sifting through all of it and to summarise;

* Go check my struts, then have a look at....

* Subframe bushes

* Adjustable camber bushes

* pineapples.

These would all be desirable to relieve me of my problem. Correct?

or should i try step by step rather than BANG all in the one go? ie easier to isolate performance of paticular parts.

Whiteline can help with all of these I think, are they the right track to go down? And while i'm screwing with the back of the car would it be worth it to disable HICAS. ( I think there is a member on here selling HICAS lock kits for 100 bucks or something)

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTRGeof has a good HICAS elimination kit for $150 with instructions, definitely worthwhile doing.

All of the Whiteline parts are available on the Group Buy;


The rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) is a DIY job. It comes with instructions.

The rear camber kit is not really DIY, you need a 10 tonne press to remove the old rubber/fixed bushes and install the new polyurethane/adjustable bushes. You could remove the rear arms and take them to a suspension shop and have them do the pressing and then refit the arms yourself. It is only 2 bolts per arm.

After the HICASs is removed and the adjustable camber bushes are installed, it will need a wheel alignment.

In the following picture the 4 subframe bush locations are marked with green dots and the camber bushes with yellow dots. Depending on how low the car is you may need one rear camber kit (which goes on the inner upper point of the arm) yellow dots. If it is very low you may need 2 kits, the 2nd set goes in the outer upper joint, red dots.


Hope that helps

:P cheers :w00t:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you need some Zenith Rear Cradle Bushes in your girl.

They are made from solid bittet, weight stuff all and will stop your axle tramping for sure!

Like Sydneykid said "axle tramp" and "Bilstein" are not something I would normally see used together." that won't be the prob, mind you King Springs aren't the best either, but all you need is the Cradle Bushes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...