(dec) 1996 R33 Series Ii Gts25t Type M
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By robbo_rb180 · Posted
So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems, could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress. After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome. Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4 Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update. -
That could be drilled, ground and welded. Would stop it progressing and leaking. But that block shouldn't be pushed very hard, as what you see there is a massive warning sign. But that fix also isn't going to happen properly with the engine in the car, and assembled. So you're looking at anew block if you're doing all that work anyway. -
It's not as simple as it is being made out to be. It s not hard, but there are things that have to be done. Am busy right now, but will try to essay later.
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By joshuaho96 · Posted
Pinout is different to my knowledge, but you should confirm to be sure. Also you will need to adjust the VQ table in Nistune to suit. I would still recommend sticking with recirculating BOVs, I'm not sure if the R35 card MAF will fully resolve stalling caused by reversion/throttle lift. -
What issues are those? Previous owner said it wants to stall sometimes. We did test drive and it was nice and smooth so it will be sporadic or idk. And if i just change MAF(the sensor to R35 version) it should be better? And as i asked...is it like "plug n play" with oem MAF from R34? This is a MAF from R35 right?
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