Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Get Rim Re-fabricated

funkymonkey

By funkymonkey,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Hey all. Just fitted up the widebody kit to an R32, and got some measurements off it. Now I've got a set of Work Equip's 18x10 and 18x11 for the rears. Any wider and the tyres will send me broke (also if I go any wider in the rears I'll have to use a staggered tyre size, which means different contact patches with the road, which means the traction sensors will go off, which means my ATTESA will go into "oh noes, AWD mode!" 24/7). So some strategic offseting and spacing have to be used.

The fronts fit properly and sit 2mm outside the guard, clears the struts and steers fine, which is perfect.

The problem I have is with the rears, the offset on them needs to be reduced by 27mm (ie the center needs to go inwards another 27mm to make the whole rim sit around 2mm outside the guard. I can either move the center of the rim inwards, or I can get a 27mm spacer. I'd prefer to move the center, as it would, as wanky as it sounds, give the rim some extra testicular fortitude.

Work Equips, the way they are made are a 3 piece rim. There's an inner rim, a center piece and an outer lip. Basically I need the inner rim to be shortened 27mm, and the outer lip extended by 27mm.

I'm looking for a workshop that can do this, and machine the rims so that the alterations are not visible, and as the outer lip is chrome, re-chrome the outer lip. Does anyone work at a shop that does this, know anyone that does this, or have had work done at a shop that can do this sorta task.

If this doesn't come to fruition, I'm gonna have to custom order a set of inner and outer rims from work themselves, which I anticipate to be a lot more costly. So any help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101944-where-to-get-rim-re-fabricated/
Share on other sites
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

... or I could shell out $50 and get a 27mm spacer. I'll have to get the rims remachined/fixed anyway, so I figured I might as well get this done too.

anyways... here's some pics of the rims.

front:

work_equips_f01.jpg

work_equips_f02.jpg

work_equips_f03.jpg

rear:

work_equips_r01.jpg

work_equips_r02.jpg

work_equips_r03.jpg

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Work Equips, the way they are made are a 3 piece rim. There's an inner rim, a center piece and an outer lip. Basically I need the inner rim to be shortened 27mm, and the outer lip extended by 27mm.

27mm is a helluva lot to take off the centre of the rim (if I understand correctly), especially in an area where all the load transfer occurs. But perhaps there's sufficient 'meat' (hard to tell from the photos).

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

Whats the offset on the rims?

Your talking about the BN kit aint ya?

How much wider are the guards front and rear?

Have ya thought about selling those rims and going for a set of fatter rims? (2nd hand) Widebody rims are cheap :P

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just use a spacer u tard like everyone else :D

well that's what I'll have to do if I can't get them redone.

27mm is a helluva lot to take off the centre of the rim (if I understand correctly), especially in an area where all the load transfer occurs.  But perhaps there's sufficient 'meat' (hard to tell from the photos).

Yup, that's one o my concerns, which is why I'm hoping to find a workshop that can advice me properly.

Whats the offset on the rims?
Its in the pics
Your talking about the BN kit aint ya?
Yes
How much wider are the guards front and rear?
Wide enough that a 10" with a +10 offset sits flush with the front.
Have ya thought about selling those rims and going for a set of fatter rims? (2nd hand) Widebody rims are cheap :(

When was the last time you saw Work Equips in 18"x11" with around a -50 offset sell cheap? Fatter rims dosen't solve my problem. The widths of the rims are perfect. Its the offsets that are wrong.
46n2 Mentor

46n2

Posted
Posted

I don't know what the offset is off the top of my head, but i'll have a look later tonight.

sizes are 17x7 & 17x8. the 17x7's look terrible. they're too narrow and don't fill the guards, the 8's look better with their ~1" lip. To be honest i don't even know if they're original Work's. I don't know how to tell...any tell-tale marks I should look for?

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

not that I know of, the center cap and sticker are what I usually use.

I'm just thinking if I find someone with narrower 18" wheels, then I can use their inner rim, and jus thave to have the outer lip redone.

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted
When was the last time you saw Work Equips in 18"x11" with around a -50 offset sell cheap? Fatter rims dosen't solve my problem. The widths of the rims are perfect. Its the offsets that are wrong.

My bad, im still learning this offset thing. Yes i read up in the new HPI but that was kinda pathetic.

Sorry for all the Q's but i really want a BN Kit for my S14, and im worried those guards are too big! I got told they are +100mm front and rear. Ive got a set of rims that are 10.5 +13 for front and 11.5 +13 for rear, i dont hink they will be enough to fill those monster guards.

Ive also been told a chap by the name Jimmy D modifies rims i think hes in Coburg area (if thats near you?) He usually has ads in the back of AutoSupermarket.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No worries Kelly, rims with positive offset are gonna be hard to fit under the BN sports blister kit. Not withough some chunky arse spacers anyways.

We test fitted the kit and some rims to take measurements off. What we found was that 10" wide rims on the front with a +0 offset fit under the guards perfectly with a 10mm spacer. And in the rear 10" wide rims with a +0 offset fit 50mm inside the guard. Both wheels clear all suspension and brakes too. I'm basically using these measurements and some simple maths to work out what rims will fit and clear all the parts under the arches.

G, thanks for the number. It seems most shops want to see the rims before they comment on it, so I might just organise to drop in and talk to em. Also do you know the legalities of splicing rims? I think you're only allowed to have one weld on a rim, but that's on a monoblock rim, not a 3 piece.

Ni, if it ends up costing too much or just a serious hassle then I'll resort to the spacer. No one seems to have gone down this avenue fully before, so I'm gonna find out for sure before giving up hope on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...