Jump to content
SAU Community

Red Warning Light ?

Sammie

By Sammie,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
power steering fluid low

It's a 33 - I understand they have electric HICAS (which would explain why the steering pump on my RB25DET upgrade is so much smaller than the R32's pump).
  • 2 weeks later...
Knat Collaborator

Knat

Posted
Posted
yeah HICAS comes up on my r33 aswell. Ive got a different steering wheel on the car aswell. So when hicas pops up is that a bad thing?

My HICAS light is coming on intermittently, usually when I'm really turning the wheel. Generally stays off until there is a big turn, then stays on till the car is turned off.

General consensus is that it's low power steering fluid or a leak. Could it be anything else as its only coming on sometimes - then staying on, but fluid looks fine and can't see any noticable leaks...?

sidewazegtst Collaborator

sidewazegtst

Posted
Posted

It's most likely an intermitent sensor problem. I had the same problem on my 240 and there's nothing to worry about. All it means is when the light is off, it's working and when it's on it's not. You can either fix it or just leave it as those are your only two choices.

Now if you gone with an aftermarket steering wheel/hub combo and did'nt get the HICAS hub, well then unless there's something else that is your problem.

When it's not working the HICAS system locks up straight so don't worry about it. ;) I pulled the fuse to the system on the 240 and never had any problems with it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Pancake Newbie

Pancake

Posted
Posted

My Hicas light came on when i was going down the freeway for the first time. I pulled over and turned off the car then turned it back on and it went off....

I do have an after market steering wheel but it came fitted when i bought the car so i dont really know if its a hicas boss kit or not. Is there anyway to tell for sure?

Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

Mine came on for no reason whatsoever and has stayed on since for several weeks now. I took it to Mercury Motorsports and told them about it but they had no idea how to fix it.

The car feels no different so for now I'll just leave it as is. Most likely just a sensor as my fluids are fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • sonicii
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...