Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Spoke to Bosch Australia today.

'Apparently' they have ZERO stock, Bosch Germany where the Z32's are manufactured have had a problem of some kind halting production.

I can get a very limited number of AFM's BUT no where near the 31 that we need at the moment. I have been told to call back every 2 days as it shouldn't be too long at all.

I'll make a few more calls tomorrow and see if I can scab some from various places around aus to make up the numbers.

Obviously I won't send out deposit details yet..

Sorry ppls, if your keen you may have to wait a little longer. :S

Its been a slow day today, many many phone calls. :S

I was unable to find a wharehouse that had any z32 airflow meters.

I'm expecting a call from Bosch tomorrow, I will know where I stand with regards to a time frame then.

Please bear with me as the group buy will definitely be going through.

WHEN is in the hands of Bosch Germany.

Aparently they are a bit scarce at the moment... I bought one less than a month ago from Petroject in Vic.. they said a number came in to the country from Germany, and they were only allocated 2 units of 10 that they requested. I got the last one they had in stock :P

They are indeed scarce.. :(

Bosch Australia have 20 items coming in. They won't be able to supply us with the required number of airflow meters until May. :D

Sorry for the hassle peoples. Early January the airflow meters were available, a production issue occured resulting in no AFM's. :P

I will PM every one as we approach the time and see if your still interested in an AFM and create a new group buy.

For those in desperate need for a Z32 (VG30DETT) airflow meter APC appears to have them listed at $360 which is a pretty good price.

http://www.apc-racing.com/browse.asp?cat=14&car=11

is this group buy still going on?

z32 fits r32 gtst right?

They will fit the 32 gts-t with the tomei plug or a plug from a vl but it will not work without a piggy back ecu or aftermarket of some sort.

Greg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...