Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge and Pillar Pods

Messiah

By Messiah,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Al-R33 Enthusiast

Al-R33

Posted
Posted

Thanks Fry!

I found your pics and guide very useful!

Just thought I'd share what I did with my own install over the weekend.

For those who don't want to drill holes in their dash for the vacuum hose, you can run both the hose & wiring down a small gap where the door meets the pillar. This gap is large enough for the hose and electrical wiring, and does not crush or bend the hose when opening and closing the door. Just as an added precautionary measure, I wrapped the vacuum hose in some plastic piping from Supercheap. Even with the added thickness of the pipe, it still slid through the top gap in the door and out the bottom quite easily. Fasten it with some double sided tape or similar, and you're done! (just FYI I used stick on Velcro, also from Supercheap. This seemed to work the best for me).

On a side note I should also add that although the links to the pics in Fry's post don't work, you can right click and "Save Picture As.." just fine - the full sized pictures still seem to be on the server.

  • 3 weeks later...
Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
can the coppers defect you for havinga pillar pod installed?

iirc yes they can. i think the reason is that it can block vision. any guages or add ons need to be below the highest level of the factory dash. so DIN guages are cool but kinda crap cos you havta take you eyes off the road. i rekon the best compromise looks like the mearcat pods. looks as stock as possible

  • 9 months later...
  • 2 years later...
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted

Good instructions, it's easier using the cigarette lighter power than working out other stuff.

Would like to add that the R33 GTR's don't have that hole in the firewall next to the stereo. Instead you'll have to cut open the large rubber grommet where the loom travels through, which is just to the right of the accelerator cable behind the insulating stuff.

Also I don't have the pillar gauge, just the one sitting on the air vent to the right corner of the dashboard, was best to run the vacuum hose down the vent and past the fuses and such.

Cheers

Ash

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Duncan
      Starting again

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • Ozdavroz
      Starting again

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • GTSBoy
      R32 Nostalgia

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • Duncan
      R32 Nostalgia

      By Duncan · Posted

      They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...