Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Trans Fluid

Techo

By Techo,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Techo Collaborator

Techo

Posted
Posted

Hey fellow wagoneers,

as you all know i got my S2 stagea a couple of weeks ago, but i still cant work out how to check the auto tranny fluid level?? Also does anyone have an english version of the maintenance manual, & where can i get one.

Thanks,

Jeff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102450-auto-trans-fluid/
Share on other sites
3intheBack Rising Star

3intheBack

Posted
Posted (edited)

The dipschtick is on the drivers side at the rear of the motor directly under the brake lines that run across the firewall.

I always check with motor running - run the auto selector thru all positions (if checking when cold) then leave in Nuetral .

Remember there are two sides to the dipstick - cold on one and hot on the other.

Wipe stick and redip about ten times cause you cant read the thing. If you find it easy to read because the oil is a nice colour, then it is probably burnt and needs changing asap.

Avoid the temptation to overfill for good measures as too much oil pressure is bad for the seals.

That reminds me of a joke...

...this seal walks into a club...

Edited by 3intheBack
Techo Collaborator

Techo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the drivers side of mine has another little compartment that you can open to see what looks like the power steering resovoir. It has oil in it, & its a bit hard to follow the pipes, but i'll take a better look & some pics tomorrow

3intheBack Rising Star

3intheBack

Posted
Posted

Power Steering is definitely in the engine bay, close to the pump.

Open the lid and have sniff. Better still, stick your finger in and have a taste.

Maybe it feeds oil to the wheels so you can easily smoke 'em up!

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
That would be the reservoir for the Attessa system, i believe it takes auto trans fluid, someone can correct me if i'm wrong.

Correct! It is for the ATESSA system.

Auto Trans Fluid and Power Steering fluid are the same anyway...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...