Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After a GTR AAC-IACV valve - it's the device bolted to the plenum that controls idle. I have confirmed in FAST that R32/R33/R34 all use the same part number. Must be in excellent working condition and prefer one from a late model (ie R34), but that's probably asking a lot :P

Also interested in an R34 CAS (all R34's use the same CAS).

PM or e-mail at:

[email protected]

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102750-wtb-gtr-aac-iacv-valve/
Share on other sites

Dude, u can use one from any of the RBs...i used one off a RB20DE and it works fine. Requires a little bit of fiddling around to get it to work, ull need to swap over your bent pipe, and plug up the hole where a solonoid might be, but you can tell the differences by just comparing them. Just as long as u have your old one ull be right. GTR ones are impossible to find in good nik.

there is two under there.....one of them is an heater element thats got something to do with the idle and the other one with the idle screw on it.....which one are you after steve?you can dissect the one with the airscrew by die grinding out the epoxy with a flat bottom die grinding bit and unscrew the idel tesioner pull out the spring and clean all the shite out.....the spring is usually under tensioned causing the infamous high idle...so doing this allows you to tension it up more....you can also throw 12v across the solenoid to make sure it works

Dude, u can use one from any of the RBs...i used one off a RB20DE and it works fine. Requires a little bit of fiddling around to get it to work, ull need to swap over your bent pipe, and plug up the hole where a solonoid might be, but you can tell the differences by just comparing them. Just as long as u have your old one ull be right. GTR ones are impossible to find in good nik.

Well I have thought about doing that, and I actually have an RB25DE IACV from a late Stagea which I could use, but I was sort of hoping to get an R34 one (long shot, for sure). Having successfully adapted an RB30 IACV to a VG30DET manifold, it's something I know I could do.......let's just say I'm getting lazy.

Nissan's price for a new one is insane, AFAIC

there is two under there.....one of them is an heater element thats got something to do with the idle and the other one with the idle screw on it.....which one are you after steve?you can dissect the one with the airscrew by die grinding out the epoxy with a flat bottom die grinding bit and unscrew the idel tesioner pull out the spring and clean all the shite out.....the spring is usually under tensioned causing the infamous high idle...so doing this allows you to tension it up more....you can also throw 12v across the solenoid to make sure it works

Not sure about the heater element thing, haven't seen anything like that on mine, just the IACV attached to the sub-plenum. I've disassembled the IACV completely and cleaned it, including removing the epoxy seal on the brass spring screw, etc. It's as clean as when it was new. I've also checked the solenoid using multimeter, etc and it's fine, plus I've tested it using the DataScan software connected via the diagnostic connector under the dash (ie played around with the idle by manually controlling the IACV).

My problem is that the idle is still slightly high (1050rpm) and there's no adjustment left on the IACV manual adjust screw to take it lower. Ignition timing is spot on. I've gone to extent of replacing all the hoses (and I do mean ALL) under the manifold, plus all the manifold gaskets and o-rings on the balance tube. Also it's not the air reg as I've tested it and it works fine plus it looks brand new. I've also checked things like the BOV vac connection; brake/clutch master vac connections; MAP sensor hoses; PCV etc, etc.

At the end, with alll I've done, I'm left with the possibility that the IACV is simply worn out and not sealing correctly internally - but to me it looked fine when I took it apart. I'm hesitant to by a s/hand one, but as I said, I'm running out of options.

steve.....try checking the element.....its located right under the first part of the inlet manifold......its a real turd to get to...you can actually dismantle that unit aswell...this unit can be replaced with the RB30 unit.....just the plug is diffrent.....you file off the small tooth on the unit itself as its in the centre and not staggered like the GTR one.....they should be closed when cold.....if you hold it up in the light and you can see daylight through it then its shagged

steve.....try checking the element.....its located right under the first part of the inlet manifold......its a real turd to get to...you can actually dismantle that unit aswell...this unit can be replaced with the RB30 unit.....just the plug is diffrent.....you file off the small tooth on the unit itself as its in the centre and not staggered like the GTR one.....they should be closed when cold.....if you hold it up in the light and you can see daylight through it then its shagged

I suspect your thinking of the air reg (bolted under the manifold up close to the head ??) and that checks out fine.....closes up completely with time/temp.

femno: nothing's been touched with the plate screws and I had the TB's off when I replaced all the gaskets. I'm confident there's no problem in that area. I've also checked the throttle actuator adjustment and no problems there as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...