Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay i got 92 r32 with a rb20 which has a few problems that are realy gettin on my nervs :P. So i was wonder if how mush it would caost just to put a new and bigger motor in and how mush will it cost and whats the best place to get it done in perth. I know i will probly need to get a rb25 box but what is easyer i to put in to a r32 a rb26dett or a rb25det neo if possable. i do have over 10 gand saved will this be enuf.

or should i just keep trying to fix the rb20det and turn it ino a hurter.

10k should cover most items

a gt-r cut will set you back about 6-7 grand most likely

you can sell the gt-r box off for about a grand, a rb25 box will cost 12-1500 with a cross member etc

essentially its a drop in operation, you will need to modify the rb26 sump to clear the cross memeber in the gts-t as it has the diff built in, which can be removed..

ecu etc, you can stick with the stock rb26 ecu, the loom etc should plug into the r32 loom with very little modification, and when its all settled in and you want to play around, you can just rom the factory ecu...

should end up with a little bit of change from your ten k, depending on who you get to do it, if you do it yourself you save more..

main cost difference is in the front cut

25 cuts are a couple of k cheaper than the 26...

downside to the 25 is the ecu is not romable, but r32 gt-r ecu's are..

big upside to the R cut is it'd come with cooler and associated pipe work <hopefully> so its something extra you wouldn't need to pay up for when doing a 25 convo

otherwise they're much a muchness, big difference being the sump on the 25, unless you end up with a gts-4 cut somehow..

rb26 is sounding bit more intresting and i can use some parts from my rb20 like the after market coil packs and a few other things on the rb26. will probly not be able to do this my self though any suggests or recommations on were to get it done. hopefuly mite have enuf theft over for a respay. :P

you can use a 20 ecu on it, but you need something to actuate the vvt solenoid, which is mainly just an off off switch, but you need to do it at the right rpm, can be done tho..

iand, don't jump the gun on the re-spray just yet, do some ringing around, get some prices etc and work out your budget

a few places i can recomend to you, going north to south

tenagah

hyperdrive

speedworks

c-red

xspeed

they'd be the best places to start and ask a few questions about the costs etc and what they can do, places like hyperdrive, c-red and x-speed can also source cuts, or get in contact with mrmayhem or dsturbed as they too will also be able to source a cut for you

I just did the rb26 conversion into my 32 gts4. Picked up a low k half cut for 4k, with brakes, gearbox, cooler etc. ceramic clutch was 500 and labour to put the motor in 500. After selling the rb20 and box ($2500) the whole thing came out as $2.5k. Can be done cheaply.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...