Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im buying a R34 from a private owner and im wondering what vehicle checks need to be done for the R34, or any copmmon things people may have come across with theirs.

The thing i also have to watch out for is running it over the pits aswell as its a Victorian car and im registering it in WA. Car is already in WA.

This is what the details are of the car.......

IMMACULATE INTERIOR & EXTERIOR,TV,DVD & 7INCH MOTORIZED SCREEN SOUND SYSTEM WITH CADIENCE SUBWOOFER & AMP, 19 INCH MAGS, APEXI SAFC 2, FULL STAINLESS TURBO BACK EXHAUST, GTR STYLE BODYKIT, TIP TRONIC AUTO WITH F1 STYLE SHIFT PADDLES, BLITZ BLOW OFF VALVE,APEXI AIR POD FILTER,TURBO TIMER, ELECTRONIC SUNROOF, XENON ELECTRONIC ADJUSTABLE HEAD LIGHTS, ELECTRIC FOLDING MIRROR, BLITZ FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER, OPTIMA DRY CELL BATTERY, DUEL AIRBAGS, FULL KEYLESS ENTRY WITH REMOTE ALARM, TYRES 93% NEW, BOOST,OIL TEMP & PRESSURE, VOLT GUAGES AND MORE... UPTO $10,000 SPENT ON EXTRAS, BUYERS WONT BE DISSAPOINTED....

860889.jpg

860890.jpg

Edited by Booya

Vehicle Details

Price $26,999

KM 81,532

Year 1998

Make Nissan

Model Skyline

Series R34

Badge 25GT-T

Body 2door Coupe

Transmission 4sp Auto

External Colour GLOSSY WHITE

Internal Colour BLACK & GREY

Reg Plate QW0458

Reg Expire JUN-2006

Edited by Booya

A few things as an idea:

1. Make sure it comes with parts like the stock air box (just incase).

2. Check all of the regular stuff like panel colours matching, gaps around doors, boots, bonnets.

3. Check the interior, boot trim etc.

4. The rest would all be in the drive I guess. Check what boost its running (there was no mention of a boost controller). The SAFC2 I assume is sorting out any richness.

5. Check it service history if u can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...