Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, it sounds like a bit of over kill. The only reason I could fit the big cooler in mine was because I've got a GTR front on mine.

Give you heaps more space up front.

Decide on what power goals you want, then find a cooler to suit them.

No use getting a 650x300x110 core if your only going to run a little more boost.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-163774
Share on other sites

Well i am going to get my turbo high flowed to t03/4 spec, n i'm hoping for around 240-50rwkw in the end with turbo, power fc and fuel upgrade. The thing i thought was good about this cooler though was that it is long but not tall therefore it will have a good pressure drop because it isn't traveling verticaly as far and is traveling straighter, plus bar and plate sounds pretty good. The only option i can go is 600*300*90 which works out the same anyway roughly because for the rise in height i lose the length, so doesn't make much difference eh as aposed to 670*245? Most coolers i look at no matter the manufacturer its about 600*300 as the standard cooler core size. In particular to help explain i am looking at the hyperflow s15 cooler and custom fitting it to my skyline, as they have a very neat cooler. check it out at http://www.hyperflow.com.au n check the s15 cooler to see what i mean. L8ters, J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-164083
Share on other sites

Power wise not much, I am yet to dyno the beast.

Mods.

PFC with Boost Kit.

Cam sprokets

Dump pipes HKS

550cc Inj

Larger intercooler

47.5mm High flow turbo's with steel shaft.

3.25" exhaust.

Track Mods

3 Core Brass Radiatior

300x200x40 oil cooler

Sump Baffel

Head retrictor

3000lb Brass button clutch

Kevlar Brake pads

Yoka 255 A-Spec tyres.

Im currently running .65 Bar and I want to dyno it up around 1.3 or until I run out of duty Cycle.

Last trackday I only got 1 unhindered lap and my passanger clocked a 1.52 Lap, My brake upgrade should pull me down into the 1.40's.

Blew my apexi up with an electrical fault about 4 weeks ago so I am running the stock computer with the old Inj while it is getting fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-166120
Share on other sites

Alothough the intercooler is large it not as big in volume as a 4" trust or alike.

760 x 360 x 72 mm = 19700cm3

A large trust would be

600 x 300 x 120 = 21600cm3

So they are about 10% bigger, I went for cooling affect, with a larger surface area. Think about the efficency of a 4" FMIC by the time a the air is trying to cool the last inch of the core.

I know I dont get above 50 Deg inlet temp on a 30+ day at the Creek.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-166127
Share on other sites

talking about coolers i saw 1 big ass 1 on a supra yesterday at ice performance (1 of the owners just imported it), it was 130mm thick and took up the whole front end of the car, but it was runnin twin t66's and all the other goodies, it pulled 300rwkw at 1 bar untuned, they r putin in a motec system and winding up boost to close to 2 bar for well over 400rwkw!! Then i understood y it had such a big ass cooler on the front! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-166259
Share on other sites

If you get around 600x300x75 you'll be fine EVEN with the stock turbo, some people will have you believe that your turbo can't flow enough air through this intercooler and that you'd be better off with a small one, even the stock one (yeah) but the fact is that my car made more power with this intercooler than with the stockie, so if things aren't flowing properly how come I'm making more power? You can't have one without the other I say.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10286-your-cooler-size/#findComment-168396
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...