Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems?? I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103002-hicas-locking-option/
Share on other sites

I ordred hicas lock from japan already. At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not. If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

I ordred hicas lock from japan already.  At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not.  If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

Which lock kit did you get? If it was the Tomei one you disconnect the solenoid valve which (I surmise) stops fluid being pumped tot he rear steering rack in any case.

Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems??  I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

By looping the oil flow at the rear, you will require high pressure fittings as the solenoids ensure sufficient pressure to move ther rack is availabe at the rear.

A better (easier and cheaper) solution is to do the looping at the front. Straight out of the power steering pump (rear stage) into the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. I will mark up the schematic tonight, but I can't see the power stering cooler mentioned, maybe becaase it's just a loop of aluminium pipe they don't put it on the schematic.

:D cheers :D

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:D cheeers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • Like 1
I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheeers :)

Have a look at page CH-372 of the R32 GT-R manual. It shows the cooling loop forward of the solenoid valve. As a aside since having my HICAS locked out with the Tomei kit the power steering fluid doesn't get as hot as it once did. This may just be from not being pushed through small orifices in the valves and/or steering rack but is probably also due to the cooler.

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

;) cheeers :O

Another question where the blue dot is located, is it already going through the cooler or we have to make it go through the cooler?

*** Never mind i got it all figured out!! Thanks for you help guys!

Edited by nanuGTR
  • 2 months later...

Alright so i have finally removed my hicas about a month ago. I herd that you can unplug the HICAS ecu and the light on the cluster will stay off and the steering gets a little heavier, is that bad for the power steering pump? Is it better the leave the HICAS ecu plugg IN or OUT?

  • 4 months later...

This may seem like a silly question, but is this the same as the 32gtst? Cause it seems my hicas solenoid thingy has more pipes coming and going from it? I can definately locate the rear hicas lines, and the line coming from the cooling pipe, but there seems to be 2+ pipes going into the solenoid? Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...