Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems?? I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103002-hicas-locking-option/
Share on other sites

I ordred hicas lock from japan already. At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not. If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

I ordred hicas lock from japan already.  At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not.  If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

Which lock kit did you get? If it was the Tomei one you disconnect the solenoid valve which (I surmise) stops fluid being pumped tot he rear steering rack in any case.

Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems??  I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

By looping the oil flow at the rear, you will require high pressure fittings as the solenoids ensure sufficient pressure to move ther rack is availabe at the rear.

A better (easier and cheaper) solution is to do the looping at the front. Straight out of the power steering pump (rear stage) into the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. I will mark up the schematic tonight, but I can't see the power stering cooler mentioned, maybe becaase it's just a loop of aluminium pipe they don't put it on the schematic.

:D cheers :D

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:D cheeers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • Like 1
I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheeers :)

Have a look at page CH-372 of the R32 GT-R manual. It shows the cooling loop forward of the solenoid valve. As a aside since having my HICAS locked out with the Tomei kit the power steering fluid doesn't get as hot as it once did. This may just be from not being pushed through small orifices in the valves and/or steering rack but is probably also due to the cooler.

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

;) cheeers :O

Another question where the blue dot is located, is it already going through the cooler or we have to make it go through the cooler?

*** Never mind i got it all figured out!! Thanks for you help guys!

Edited by nanuGTR
  • 2 months later...

Alright so i have finally removed my hicas about a month ago. I herd that you can unplug the HICAS ecu and the light on the cluster will stay off and the steering gets a little heavier, is that bad for the power steering pump? Is it better the leave the HICAS ecu plugg IN or OUT?

  • 4 months later...

This may seem like a silly question, but is this the same as the 32gtst? Cause it seems my hicas solenoid thingy has more pipes coming and going from it? I can definately locate the rear hicas lines, and the line coming from the cooling pipe, but there seems to be 2+ pipes going into the solenoid? Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...