Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

I really need help. I went to pump petrol, got out of the car filled up $40 came back and it wouldn't start. My car has been sitting at the petrol sation now for 3 whole days and it's not firing. The engine turns over the fuelpump prims and then nothing. I've changed the ignition module on top of the rocket cover and nothing. I've checked the coil packs and nothing. The problem is that the coil packs arn't firing at all and that's why it's not starting.

I've checked the coil packs and there is a small pulse going to them but apparently it's a positive pulse and it needs a negative or some shit. The sparky had a look at it and i really don't think he knows what he's doin. He told me to get the ignition module and that didn't do anything and now he's telling me to get a new ECU.

The car's got split fire coils and has a microtech ltx12 as well as the standard computer.

So if some one can help me that would be really great.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover. This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition. Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that. You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898609
Share on other sites

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover.  This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition.  Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that.  You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

How fo go i check the CAS??

i took it off and turned it and it started making clicking noises in the engine bay. is does that means that it's working??

Cheers

anthyony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898631
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors). CAS also controls ignition. Best way to check is to swap for a known good one.

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898675
Share on other sites

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors).  CAS also controls ignition.  Best way to check is to swap for a known good one. 

It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

Fuel is definatly gettin to the injectors cause we checked the pressure in the lines when the ignition was on.

The microtec looks after fuel and ignition and the standard looks after everything else. . Or so i think.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1898681
Share on other sites

Does it sound like it wants to fire? Or is the engine simply spinning over? Does the LTX tell you anything that is happening?

Some things to try:

1. Disconnect the fuel line (return line probably best) and have a container to catch any fuel.

2. Prime the engine. Do you get fuel?

3. If "Yes", crank engine. Fuel still?

If "Yes", then clearly fuel side is working. Re-connect fuel line.

4. Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to listen to the injectors while cranking.

5. Lift coil pack #1 from the spark plug, insert a standard spark plug lead between coil and plug, connect timing light.

6. Crank engine. Timing light strobes?

7. Failing that, pull #1 plug as well, and assemble the coil / plug and observe if the plug sparks while cranking.

8. Check the earth connection for the ignitor module.

All this cranking, it's quite probable the engine has flooded. You might have to pull all the plugs and clean them up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899459
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899611
Share on other sites

Hi

The fuel side is definatly working we can hear the injectors and we took the line out and petrol went every where when we primed the car.

We checked the spark by taking out one of the coil packs and putting it against a screw driver and no spark we tried this on 3 different coil packs and still nothing. We changed the coil packs and still nothing. I'm going insane.

Cheers

anthony

How about you go to Repco and buy a $14 HEI spark tester and do it properly...a screw driver can still mislead you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1899689
Share on other sites

Hi peoples

Well it's all fixed. it actually was the ignitor.

what are the chances of me getting a dud from the the wreckers. I couldent believe it when i took it to my tuner and he checked everything and said it's your ignitor i told him that it couldn't be cause i got another one from the wereckers. so we tested my ignitor on another r32 and it wouldn't start. so i went out and baught another one for $150 and she works like a charm.

Anyways went back to the wreckers today to return the ignitor cause it wasn't working and he basically told me to go and get fu*d he said that there's somthing wrong with my car and that's why it wasn't working anymore. Oh well what can you do i guess. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Always helpfull

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103298-need-help/#findComment-1902661
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...