Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It True Heavy Pressureplates Can Hurt The

NateR31
 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Probably. I've seen articles that describe "clutch is to the drivetrain as a fuse is to any electrical component". So, as you start putting too much torque through the clutch, it will eventually reach a point where the clutch will slip, thus reducing the torque delivered to the other components of the drive train.

If you uprate a fuse, you increase the risk of damaging the electrical component(s) on that fuse's circuit. Similarly, if you upgrade the strength of the clutch, then the torque from the engine starts looking for the next "weakest link", and this will likely be a gear, either in the diff or in the gearbox.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

yes....

Running a button.. or twin plate definitely puts more strain as there is a much firmer clamping action. This is obviously good for a firm mating action, but like Elk is saying above the energy has to be transferred through to something, usually the rest of the drive train. If that isn't up to it, snap.

In some cases, I tend to think having a clutch that slips slightly is probably better for the long-term health of the gearbox, as there is a little bit of give.

Obviously there gets to a point where you need something quite heavy duty (twin, etc) but its not always a good idea to put the heaviest clutch in you can get.

NateR31 Grand Master

NateR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i have a R34GTT gearbox, the twin plate im getting has a 920kg pressure plate, ive seen cheaper aftermaket clutches that have heavier, the box only has around 40,000 kms on it.. Do you know this will do any damage?

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Sure, but like everything 10% of the damage will be because of the type of clutch and 90% will be the way you drive it.

A heavy clutch wont f**k the box on it's own. If it has a heavy pressure plate it may bend the clutch fork, snap the pivot, or cause premature failure of the hydraulics.

If it's unsprung it may damage the gear faces and eccessively wear the bearings if you have a lumpy idle.

If it's a puck type clutch it will wear the stock flywheel more than an organic (not that you have this problem as you get a new flywheel)

So unlike the other guys, i'm willing to say you won't kill your diff or box solely because you've installed a twin plate. If you've installed a twinplate behind a 400kw engine then it's a different story as now you can transfer all that torque and tear the teeth of 3rd gear :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...