Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm doing the compliancing on my R32 myself before getting it checked by the engineer to get the personal imports plate.

I've read the DIY compliance thread, but since I actually owned my car overseas the conditions are a little different. The following was brought up during my conversation with one engineer :

1. Child restraint points, no problem can get this from supercheap or autopro

2. Drivers mirrors, someone said that this doesn't need to be changed. Mine looks quite flat, so how concave is concaved?

3. Fuel restrictor, someone said that a sticker will do, another said that it has to be done for a few dollars, which is it?

4. High rear brake lights, can do.

Things that the engineer didn't mentioned :

5. VIN plague, I can do this myself no problem.

6. Seat belts, mine are fine but do these need to be changed?

7. I have non-original wheels, do I need stickers for this and what do they look like?

Are there anything else that I need to do/change?

Thanks in advance. Was pretty happy to see the car after only a month but had something stolen from it unfortunately. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103478-self-compliancing/
Share on other sites

What state are you in? All you have to do with a personal import is ensure that the car meets the registration and roadworthy requirements of the state. So contact the RTA / etc for your state and ask.

You haven't mentioned side impact bars so I'm assuming it's a later model R32. If it's pre August 1991 you will need that done as well.

What state are you in? All you have to do with a personal import is ensure that the car meets the registration and roadworthy requirements of the state. So contact the RTA / etc for your state and ask.

You haven't mentioned side impact bars so I'm assuming it's a later model R32. If it's pre August 1991 you will need that done as well.

Hi,

I'm in Victoria and my car is a late 91 model (though how can I check that properly?).

I don't understand what is "Guided Mode".

Seat belts are fine.

they will have JIS markings on them (well, on a white tag sewn into the base or something like that).

Provided they lock (they do), they are ADR compliant.

You could check by pulling the trim off the doors and cheking for side intrusion bars.

or you could post your vin number into the appropriate thread (nissan software or something - the thread exists), and then post the reply back here (so I can see too.....)

So what do you need to register the car? I am presuming that you have all the appropriate import approval stuff...

How big / what are you "non original" wheels. if they are the same size as stock, I don't see a problem. If they are legal, I don't think there would be a problem. If they are 32' - I see a problem...

EDIT - Nissan FAST Software

Edited by ebola
  • 3 weeks later...
My wheels are 17s, so no problems there.

Can anyone tell me where to get a fuel restrictor?  I heard that you can buy it off Mitsubishi for their Magnas.

Lemme know how you get on sourcing the bits and pieces Informer. I'm doing the same thing with an 89 gtr.

What did the shipping fairies appropriate from your car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...