Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was driving 2 my mates house late last nite with few friends, in several cars, i was alongside my mate in his HSV GTO. we got to draffic lights (after driving for 10 min along marion rd) and as the ligths go green, i start driving, n i look behind me n he isnt moving.

he calls me n goes my car wont move. i go back to have a look, start the engine runns ok, put it in drive n hear grinding noise comming from the back..i go, have a look under the car incase somthings jammed underneath...we have a look and wat do we see...3 brackets with 5cm long thick bolts on the ground under the car...

came from the diff, raa came, n said thers no awy they could have just fallen off, had 2 b unscrewed, and would have taken a while cos its awkward position/large bolts...some parts to the diff came off and there was 2 more missing there we couldnt find...sounded like the bearings were fked....got towed to HSV to get repaird...lucky its under warranty...lol well theres my excitment for the night...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103924-car-falling-apart/
Share on other sites

Dude i used to work on new stuff that holdens built, and the v8 irs were all the same. Ive seen some poor excuse for quality come through, and i complained about it.

Know what response i was given?...-"Don't worry about it, because holdens are happy with it"

Chassis are basically all the same from base to HSV GTO models.

Edited by Bl4cK32
my oldman has a gto monaro and had no probs with it...

maybe i should climb undernethe it and check  some mountings out

And they wonder why people buy imported cars :S

My old man's VX S Commodore has only done about 60k and is always garaged... yet all the rubbers on the rear window have already shrunk and gone out of shape

My Supra turns 20 years old this year.... all the rubbers are the original ones, and are still in awesome condition.

My old Commo's rear IRS subframe cracked all the way through, the crack looked like it began from where the diff bolts up on the drivers side. Obviously gear slapping related. :P

Cost 2k to fix... My rear wheels had what looked like 45degree's negative camber with the bumper touching the ground. :S

Then the diff went... and the gearbox.. :S

Simply looking at the design you can see how the skylines are so much stronger. Not that this is a comparo thread, just an observation from an ex-commode owner.

Sounds like the center bearing mount has dropped?? I doubt the gearbox rear mount has let go.

ha ha ha ha ahahahahahaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

aaaaaaaaaaaaaa farkin ha what do you expect from a car that comes from elizabeth made by beer swilling, dope smoking, meth taking, ferals ha no shit it fell apart , sorry laughed my ass off that hard am still hurting from it.

I dont have any problems with holden cars. All of the ones made before 1979 are the best running, most reliable cars i have owned.

There are quality holdens, built but like anywhere else, there was quality issues that you wouldnt want on a car you would buy.

Have a look how many Holdens there are in the workers carpark to see what i mean :)

ha ha ha ha ahahahahahaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

aaaaaaaaaaaaaa farkin ha what do you expect from a car that comes from elizabeth made by beer swilling, dope smoking, meth taking, ferals ha no shit it fell apart , sorry laughed my ass off that hard am still hurting from it.

... the same as a car built by "beer swilling, dope smoking, meth taking, ferals" in the industrial districts of japan.. There isnt some brilliant samurai sword builder that personally builds each skyline you know... they have their line workers too. I guess holdens are just built to a price, and thats about it.

That's my biggest reservation about "performance" commodores is that their price tag isn't reflected in a better overall build quality...

ha ha ha ha ahahahahahaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

aaaaaaaaaaaaaa farkin ha what do you expect from a car that comes from elizabeth made by beer swilling, dope smoking, meth taking, ferals ha no shit it fell apart , sorry laughed my ass off that hard am still hurting from it.

lol :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

true, had 1 keep up with me 2day, but i had my air con on..

There would be hundreds and hundreds of vlt's that would beat you

Knowing lots of people at holdens and knowing there second job's are meth dealing

and dope growing, i somehow still don't see Japanese industrial workers being that bad

cheers

darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...