Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

not bn the most mechanical of persons, i know i have a crack in my radiator some where and am about to have it fixed.

But today I was driving(not hard) and noticed my temp gauge was up at 3/4. worried id cook the engine i only had to drive another 500m and was doing 45kms in 5th lol and it droped in temp to just above normal.

I stopped and popped the hood and my overflow tank was litterly boiling, and was at say 3/4 max when i left only about 10kms before. Just wondering what the hell is going on and what to do!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104105-radiator-trouble-urgent/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

not bn the most mechanical of persons, i know i have a crack in my radiator some where and am about to have it fixed.

But today I was driving(not hard) and noticed my temp gauge was up at 3/4. worried id cook the engine i only had to drive another 500m and was doing 45kms in 5th lol and it droped in temp to just above normal.

I stopped and popped the hood and my overflow tank was litterly boiling, and was at say 3/4 max when i left only about 10kms before. Just wondering what the hell is going on and what to do!!

Check or change your thermostat, it could be stuck close. If it's a crack in your radiator, you could trace the coolant leak when you park after a drive.

ok after driving this arvo (rad took 3.5lt water to fill) it drove ok babying it every where. Got home and noticed i was getting steam condensation comming from my window vents to the windscreen.

my gf's dad took a quick look, and there was heat comming from the vents and my passenger side floor was damp, and looking up under i could see water with green(coolant colour) leaking from up under the dash.

We thought it might be a heater core leak or bust, and that would be draining the radiator as it would be pulling coolant/water thru the heater core, leaking thru one of the hoses which was causing teh fluid to drain under the car, but has no gotten worse causing it to leak into the cabin of the car??? Anyone had this problem??? and any idea/DYI on how to fix or diag this problem????

will be trying to fix this tomorrow so any help asap would be great guys

Yeah man, it happened to me.

I reckon my problem is the heater core as coolant was leaking into the passenger footwell.

There looks to be a lot of work trying to get to the heater core and I use my car as a daily driver. So all I have done for now is bypassed the heater by connecting the inlet/outlet hoses in the engine bay. You get no heat, but it's getting me by until I can find enough time to pull the dash to pieces, get to the core and send it off to a radiator repair shop.

Yeah man, it happened to me.

I reckon my problem is the heater core as coolant was leaking into the passenger footwell.

There looks to be a lot of work trying to get to the heater core and I use my car as a daily driver. So all I have done for now is bypassed the heater by connecting the inlet/outlet hoses in the engine bay. You get no heat, but it's getting me by until I can find enough time to pull the dash to pieces, get to the core and send it off to a radiator repair shop.

haha wev just figured out to do the same thing, havnt lost any water yet, letting it cool now, so we will know in the next bit... luckly its not cold out today lol

haha wev just figured out to do the same thing, havnt lost any water yet, letting it cool now, so we will know in the next bit... luckly its not cold out today lol

Lemme know how long it takes you to do the job when you get around to it. It'll give me an indication of how long to expect to be off the road for.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...