Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey check out ebay au, happen to see a post of NGK G-Power platinum going for $5 buck with free shipping..

NGK G-Power

Another interesting thing to note, for R32 owners etc... the coil pack PLUGS (loom side), have a tendency to DESINTEGRATE... especially if they're 13-15 years old... I've seen this happen before, and today I changed my plugs (after having missing on 2 cylinders... sounded like a WRX :D) to copper BCPR6ES-11's gapped to 0.7mm, and had TWO stuffed coilpack plugs. She runs a charm now.

Even if the inside yellow/brown section of the coilpack plug desintegrates, DONT cut the plug off... you CAN NOT buy these new (as far as i know), and will have to source them off another wreck. They still work fine if the yellow/brown plastic comes out, just push the pins/resitors back in, and connect the plug carefully... no dramas! :)

i iused the BCPR6ES and had major missfire problems under boost which then killed the plugs so it sounded like scooby. i then replaced them with BCPR7ES and all is well. i have an R32 gts-t std boost but HKS air filter, exhaust including downpipe with bov.

Im in england by the way.

Thanks John

With regards to the V-Power.

They are a little difficult to get here in SA but I have found Motortraders stock the BCPR6E.

The BCPR6E are the V-power/groove plug. I believe they dropped the Y.

From memory a set of 6 from Motortraders is around $17.

Don't bother with supercrap they wanted 3x the price.

Dirt Cheap. :D

They are..

I've been running them since they were called BCPR6EY. Around 2-3years ago for some reason they dropped the Y.

So in total including the Y's I have been running them since I bought the car 4.5yrs ago.

I have an old spark plug laying around somewhere, I'll grab a pic of it and post her up.

But as I said the only place that stocks them is Motortraders, specifically Motortraders at Edwardstown. The BCPR6E-11's appear to be a little more abundant.

Here's a quick google result.

http://www.overboost.com/obs/hin/product.a...name=Sparkplugs

and this from an old NGK link.

http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:sSDfG7y...lient=firefox-a

I gave them a buzz as Im going to throw in a set of 7's in a couple of weeks.

Unfortunately they don't have the BCPR7E/BCPR7E-11 or BKR7E/BKR7E-11 listed, the BCPR6E's are.

Bugger..

EDIT: And a couple pics of the BCPR6E that have done 30,000km's.

They were still running fine in the car but you can see they were on their way out as the electrode is well and truley rounded. :whistling:

No octane boosters and the like only ever BP98.

post-382-1150943047.jpg

post-382-1150943053.jpg

Sweet. Good stuff they have the BCPR7E then!

And yeah those sparkies look well and truely shagged. Lucky their cheap!

What gap are you running? I've found I can gap V-Powers around 0.1 - 0.15 bigger than NGK Platinums which is a testimony to their efficiency.

Yeah actually come to think of it, I've never been able to get my hands on the 0.8mm version. Always the BKR7E-11. Kinda annoying. The guys in the States debate about gapping the -11s down to 0.8mm (or less) as they say the electrode isnt parallel anymore. Still works good though..

The guys in the States debate about gapping the -11s down to 0.8mm (or less) as they say the electrode isnt parallel anymore. Still works good though..

I've noticed this also when I gapped a set down, which is why until now I've avoided gapping down.

Couldnt you guys just order in a whole bunch, group buy it on here or something?

Im going to try and find them tomorrow tho, and do it on the weekend see how it goes and all.

Quick question tho. If my little sprung coilpack contact things are gone, but the coilpack other than that is still good, what would I use as a replacement for the spring?

Well my worst fears are confirmed, 3 of 3 coil packs I pulled out had cracks and tested at the 20k ohms setting 1.5,1.6 and 1.7, I have allready found some new ones at Kudos motorsport, has anyone bought from them and these are OEM units.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...