Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was bored. Came home from the pub and wacked "turbo" into an ebay search.

Came up with a few things.

I currently have a R33 GTST and im wanting to do a turbo upgrade. Dont want to spend too much, but dont want some cheap peice of shit hanging off my manufold!

Give me your thoughts on the following three turbos:

1. - MonstA T70 800HP - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...mMakeTrack=true

2 - BRAND NEW GT28RS - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-GT28RS-BA...1QQcmdZViewItem

3 - MonstA T3/T4 T04E 600HP - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MonstA-T3-T4-T04E-6...1QQcmdZViewItem

Out of the MonstA's are they cheap shit or just underpriced turbos?

Give me your thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/
Share on other sites

The 2 monsta turbos are probably a bit bigger than you want to run on an internally stock rb25, not withstanding the unknown quality issue.

The gt28rs is probably a bit small (and t2 flanged) something like a 2871 with one of the bigger exhaust housings would give a good result (ive seen 240 rwkw on an rb25 from one) but also it is t2 flanged so requires a new dump, adapter plate, oil and water lines, oil return and possibly a bit of custom work on the intake side aswell.

Once you cost all that up it is probably about the same money as ripping your turbo off and sending it off to GCG for a highflow then bolting it back on when you get it back. No messing with lines, dumps or piping and good for 250+rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924179
Share on other sites

id say bolt on twin t88s with stock ecu and then it should be fine

wont be much lag and will come on boost around 11000rpm

perfect for the street.

have u done a search? the mods needed to make power include more than just the power, generally picking the turbo is the last thing you do. sum up all the bolt on mods you will need to gain the most benefit out it with real hardware then work out your turbo budget. and pick one that suits your power goal, not one that suits an 800hp if you plan to only use 280hp of it.

all of this info is clearly on the forums already on what parts you need and where to get there, just need some common sense and researching done on your behalf.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924198
Share on other sites

lets pretend you bolt on the gt28rs and it costs you say 700

then you have to change the flange say 300

then have the oil and water lines done and fitted 150

so its cost you around 1100 then you drive around and hit stock boost cut, so you need piggyback to workaround or aftermarket ecu

then you get a piggyback spend a few weeks stuffing arouind with it and then realise you should have just gotten a stand alone ecu then when you do the stock clutch slips, then when thats ok you max out injectors, then you have to fit new injectors. and so on

you can bolt it all on live on the 230-240rwkw borderline and have everything max out or do it properly and be safe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924209
Share on other sites

Chinese mass produced turbos like the above are of poor build quality and last for a day.

I know this because i make turbochargers and have seen what happens all to often to these turbo's.

Buying copied turbos with Garrett Model numbers should be the first alarm to go off especially when there is no manufacturer markings at all on them apart from turbocharger and ar size.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924442
Share on other sites

the trouble is everyone wants everything for nuthin these days :(

i want 700hp at wheels for budget of $200, any chance? :P

f**kin ebay is a killer, these turbos, and fake bov's, wastegates, manifolds are absolute shit and if u cant do it properly then dont do it!

whats the point of spending $800 on a shit turbo that aint gonna last when garret genuine ones are only $1600-2K which is gonna actually work and last for a long time.

i think nismoids comment about "i can say i got a gt30/t70 etc sounds like a beast" but it goes slower and runs worse than a stock turboed car is 100% true.

long live the china products, and ebay the classiest performance parts on earth most of the time :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104518-quality-or-sht/#findComment-1924541
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...