Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just bought myself an R33 GTSt, it loooks and feels great to drive (of course).

Unfortunately the one thing I didn't count on was how low the beast is. Having both lowered suspension and a GTR front bar means I have a barely roadworthy 10cm clearance at the front end of the car... Eeek, that's after driving a Holden Jackeroo 4WD for 2 years...

Basically normal driving is fine, but going into driveways gives me an aweful, big scary scrape, that almost drags off my soon to be repaired front bar. So I've given up going into driveways for the moment.

Does anyone have any tips for me?

-Max

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/
Share on other sites

Drive reeeeeeally slowly. I scraped my front bar about 3 or 4 times good before I realised the speed you need to travel and the angles you need to go up driveways at.

You'll be over it in a months time. If not then it deffinetly is too low.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-167131
Share on other sites

yeah, i have the same problem.. no matter how slow or careful some are just too steep and that doesn't even have to be massively steep too.. really carefully slowly and sideways.

Just don't go some places.. might have to stop and walk a bit :D Otherwise just budget every year for $300 respray and some fibreglass patching :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-167161
Share on other sites

Try applying some stuff to the underside of the front bar if you're that worried, just where you cant see it. Something like a few little pieces of black metal stuck on or something so that when u go up the driveway it just scrapes those.... just put them where u cant really see them...... just an idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-167303
Share on other sites

I have same problem - just becareful is the only thing u can do - you will scrape it - you will crack your front spoiler from time to time ......... its just what happens to a lowered car the only way to get around it is hightening it and if u dont want to do that just use some TLC in even the slightest slopes and be prepared to do the occasional maintenance work on the front kit. It looks good but it is hard work keeping a lowered car also suspension wise it takes its toll a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-167520
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I just didn't want to feel like the only person who it happens to. Basically the only driveway I can and will go up is the one at my house, (thank god), so I just have to park on the street elsewhere.

I'll just have it fixed and resprayed once a year or something, no problems.

-Max

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-167819
Share on other sites

If we have someone parked out the front of our house on the street (Live in a Cul-de-sac) my car is stuck up the driveway. Thats coz our next door neighbours lawn is in better condition then the local golf greens so if I got caught going over that he'd have my nads on a plate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-168692
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Nismo_Freak

10 cm clearance is alot... thats 4 inches nearly. My car rides about 2.5" off the ground. Of course stiffer suspension does make it a tad easier to go places cause the suspension doesnt travel very far.

2.5"!!! is that legal in Texas is it? Don't they have speed bumps or driveways there??? LOL

Interestingly enough, I checked and my exhaust sits a bit lower than my bar, yet it never scrapes, but I guess its because its closer to the wheels...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10460-car-too-low/#findComment-168705
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...