Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls, was wondering if anyone can help me out please...is the 044 only an external pump or can it be an internal aswell?

i currently have an 019 and its maxing out, but i dont want to setup an external pump system...any suggestions?

thanks in advance.

oh yeh its for an R32 RB20

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104909-info-on-bosch-044/
Share on other sites

get a 984 then, doubt you'll be making more than it can handle with an RB20

DIY section has all the answers

Whilst thread is for the R33, the R32 cant be a world apart from whats in there, so great start for you

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=67683

:D

the 044 is listed as external but works internally.

same goes for the 984 in addition they have a hose end on the bottom and a female fitting on the top. they are a tiny bit shorter than the 044 and that makes em easier to fit.

the 040 has an open end.

fuelpumps.pdf

Edited by wolverine
Bastard!

How about an answer to my question though?

If you can fit it intank and you need the extra *oomph* then sure mount it intank.

I only want 200kw's at all 4's so for me I just went with the 040.

Greg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...