Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Bolts' Torque Settings For Rb25det...

kossak

By kossak,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

kossak Enthusiast

kossak

Posted
Posted

hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

kossak Enthusiast

kossak

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Ummm i think you made an error?  You need to know about an RB25 in the title, then you ask about an RB30 which you have a manual about...

na mate, rb30Det

its got a rb25 head. There for rb25 head torque settings

and it is the turbo head, not the non turbo head...

-Tom

Edited by kossak
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

kossak Enthusiast

kossak

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

rocker cover screws i assumed didnt really matter, but still, i wannna try n do it rite if i can.

as for the head bolts

wtf is vrs kit? (im a n00b stuggleing to put together a engine) -im assuming it is the headgasket kit??? if it is i got a complete head gasket kit from nissan so no torque setting there. Also what about the intake and zorst manifolds then?

doesnt ne1 here have a 33 workshop manual or at least hav a link to an online 1 (that is free)

-Tom

  • 13 years later...
SSSHONKY_V_2 Rookie

SSSHONKY_V_2

Posted
Posted
On 2/8/2006 at 9:02 PM, The Dan said:

Here

post-10554-1139403582.jpg

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

Correct

it is done this way to “bed in” the threads to ensure a more accurate clamp load

 

 

 

SSSHONKY_V_2 Rookie

SSSHONKY_V_2

Posted
Posted

OK so, things are progressing well. My torque wrench proved unreliable at low torque settings so was fortunate enough to have a good mate loan me a Sidchrome precision torque wrench , what a beauty of a tool to use! 

I did the initial 3 passes , so now they are all loose waiting for the final tightening. 

My question is: Who uses the angle measurement tool for the final tightening? I am not adverse to buying one considering they are pretty cheap, or just dummying something up with cardboard and something to hold it in place with. 

Is a torque wrench enough, or do you need the angle of the dangle?

 

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the spec on the bolts is torque, use torque. if the spec on the bolts is angle, use angle. Accept no substitutes.

Except in the wokshop manual screenshot above where it gives both :p.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...