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hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Ummm i think you made an error?  You need to know about an RB25 in the title, then you ask about an RB30 which you have a manual about...

na mate, rb30Det

its got a rb25 head. There for rb25 head torque settings

and it is the turbo head, not the non turbo head...

-Tom

Edited by kossak
hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

rocker cover screws i assumed didnt really matter, but still, i wannna try n do it rite if i can.

as for the head bolts

wtf is vrs kit? (im a n00b stuggleing to put together a engine) -im assuming it is the headgasket kit??? if it is i got a complete head gasket kit from nissan so no torque setting there. Also what about the intake and zorst manifolds then?

doesnt ne1 here have a 33 workshop manual or at least hav a link to an online 1 (that is free)

-Tom

  • 13 years later...
On 2/8/2006 at 9:02 PM, The Dan said:

Here

post-10554-1139403582.jpg

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

6 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

Correct

it is done this way to “bed in” the threads to ensure a more accurate clamp load

 

 

 

OK so, things are progressing well. My torque wrench proved unreliable at low torque settings so was fortunate enough to have a good mate loan me a Sidchrome precision torque wrench , what a beauty of a tool to use! 

I did the initial 3 passes , so now they are all loose waiting for the final tightening. 

My question is: Who uses the angle measurement tool for the final tightening? I am not adverse to buying one considering they are pretty cheap, or just dummying something up with cardboard and something to hold it in place with. 

Is a torque wrench enough, or do you need the angle of the dangle?

 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the spec on the bolts is torque, use torque. if the spec on the bolts is angle, use angle. Accept no substitutes.

Except in the wokshop manual screenshot above where it gives both :p.

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