Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have of late been considering letting the GTR go as I would like to use the money for other purposes.

I have owned the car for over 2 years and have been in the process of building it up almost the entire time. Most work was performed throughout last year and all the work completed by Gavin Wood, Autotech Labrador. Including full rebuild.

The work currently carried out to the car includes:-

(All parts bought NEW unless specified)

Genuine Nissan N1 Block ($3,500)

GTR Crank (replaced)

Adjustable Cam Gears

Apexi Power FC 'Plug N Play'

Apexi Electronic Boost Controller Kit

Apexi FC Commander Hand Controller

Apexi Super Intake kit for 80mm AFM's

Apexi GT Spec Intercooler (no longer in production) 136mm Thick

R33 Gtst 80mm AFM's <Used

Greddy/Trust Oil Catch Can

Greddy/Trust Intercooler Piping Kit

CP Forged Pistons

Tomei Metal Head Gasket

NISMO Fuel Pump

600cc injectors

HKS GT-SS Sports Turbines - Ball Bearing 320hp each

HKS Split Dump Pipes

HKS stage 2 cams and springs

Twin 3" Front Pipes into single 3.5" Exhaust. N1 Style Muffler

N1 Oil pump

N1 Water Pump

OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch R3C

Lightened Flywheel

Apline MP3 Headunit w/remote

Alarm System with Remote Central Locking

Bride Reclining Racing Seats w/genuine rails

Nismo Duracon Gearknob

TEIN Super Street Coilovers (adjusted for Australian Conditions)

(Height and Dampening Adjustable)

Front Strut Brace

Michelin Pilot Preceda Tyres

Slotted Brake Rotors and Bendix Pads

Price: $32,000 $29,000 $28,500 No RWC, No Offers 50% OFF BUILD PRICE!!1!!1 I added up $20,000 in parts alone in my head over the past 2 years.

At present the car is only producing 350awhp @ 1.2bar, If I keep the car and add larger injectors and Pon Cams I can achieve alot more. Everything else is in place including the major labour costs.

Contact: [email protected]

Location: Brisbane

IMG_0364.JPG

IMG_0120.JPG

IMG_0395.JPG

Edited by 600ZILLA

350awkw with a couple more minor mods :rolleyes: Most people would know the capabilities of the GT-SS Turbos by now.

I tidied up the original post and adjusted the price to better meet the current market.

Jonathan

Edited by 600ZILLA

I will consider part trades such as R32 Gtst, 180SX, Silvia up to around $12,000.

Edit: I should also mention I take very good care of my gear, the car is always under cover and clean throughout. Generally only taken out on weekends.

Around 15,000km since rebuild and most of which was running in and low boost.

IMG_0138.JPG

Edited by 600ZILLA

Thanks for the comments guys. My situation has changed a bit and have decided to amend the price.

Price drop $30,000 FIRM.

Edited by 600ZILLA

Thanks for the positive comments fella's.

The car is a pleasure to drive, I borrowed my mums commodore the other day and I soon remembered just how good it is.

Jonathan

From the look of the photos and the list of work performed, this is one of the best modded 32 gtr's for sale at the moment. If I had the money, I'd be making an offer, $30k is not unreasonable. Good luck mate.

Added to Carsales for $31,000 inc. RWC.

The price $30,000 is without RWC

Otherwise i can remove parts for a cheaper price but would prefer not to do this considering its a couple mods from 360awkw.

Jonathan

The car requires Pon Cams or similar and larger injectors so around $1400 in parts, some tuning and a bit of labour. I may do this work shortly and bump the sale price a bit.

The difference in price for RWC is because I would need to changeover a couple parts to meet RWC, exhaust possibly and change back over again.

I am also doing contract work and a few hours away from work adds up quickly.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...