Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im in the process of doing the 5 stud conversion to my s13 and need to get the rotors machined first, the rear rotors were still attached to the hubs and backing plate. The first one i tried was very easy to come off using the 2 bolt holes, however the second one is being a real bitch and i think its because the shoe inside is stuck or some shit because i can move the rotor around freely and the rock cover gaurd thing is quite bent so i can see down the back and can see that only 1/4 of the shoe is wanting to come out :(

Ive tried heaps of shit but dont want to damage anything so i gave up. Has anyone had any problems or any places they reccomend i can take it to and get it off and how much it could set me back.. :S

Thanks in advance

Edited by dazza05
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105841-removing-rear-rotors/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Im in the process of doing the 5 stud conversion to my s13 and need to get the rotors machined first, the rear rotors were still attached to the hubs and backing plate. The first one i tried was very easy to come off using the 2 bolt holes, however the second one is being a real bitch and i think its because the shoe inside is stuck or some shit because i can move the rotor around freely and the rock cover gaurd thing is quite bent so i can see down the back and can see that only 1/4 of the shoe is wanting to come out :(

Ive tried heaps of shit but dont want to damage anything so i gave up. Has anyone had any problems or any places they reccomend i can take it to and get it off and how much it could set me back..  :S

Thanks in advance

sounds like it mite b stuck on the spline. iv never workd on a s13, but sound like a hammer job. or a gear puller...if it spins its not a stuck pad....

Loosen off the handbrake shoes. There should be a hole approx 2 cm diameter, might have a rubber grommet in it. Rotate the disc to near "6 o'clock" and there is a cog wheel visible through the hole. Use a screwdriver or similar to rotate the cog (can't recall which direction loosens).

If the rotor is a bit stiff, use a long bar between the studs to rotate the the rotor / hub.

You will probably still need to use the 2-bolt removal afterwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...