Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh and i made my own controller up that you can adjust the degree you want it to come on and the hysteresis....but now vdo have these....but they may need to be modified to see the correct Ohmage from your sender as they dont seem to go down as far as the nissan sender does(it piggy backs off your temp sender)very easy to fit

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Have you got an electric water pump?

Nope.

Pretty sure its doing no harm tho. Might even be some sort of convection current if water is hot in the block and cooler in the radiator?... maybe... i don't know these things...

All theory aside, the results are the main point and the results are awesome.

The reason I asked is that there is no point in running your fan after the engine has shut down because the coolant isn't circulating - unless you have an eleectric water pump that also runs after the engine is shut down.

Rev210,

Any pics of this 16" thermo sitting in the std shroud?

I assume you simply screwed or some how attached the thermo in the location of the normal clutch fan to the factory shroud?

Might have to do some measurements.

I've previously ran 2 x 12" davis fans, it was fine apart from sitting in traffic on a 30+ degree day with the a/c on. Temps would creep to the H. :)

oh and i made my own controller up that you can adjust the degree you want it to come on and the hysteresis....but now vdo have these....but they may need to be modified to see the correct Ohmage from your sender as they dont seem to go down as far as the nissan sender does(it piggy backs off your temp sender)very easy to fit

Was the kit/controller that you piggy backed from the stock sensors able to interact with the thermoswitch?Was it a thermo kit specifically made to run a thermoswitch?

Sounds like the go.

Rev210,

Any pics of this 16" thermo sitting in the std shroud?

I assume you simply screwed or some how attached the thermo in the location of the normal clutch fan to the factory shroud?

Might have to do some measurements.

I've previously ran 2 x 12" davis fans, it was fine apart from sitting in traffic on a 30+ degree day with the a/c on. Temps would creep to the H. :P

Getting the fan to fit under the cover shouldnt be that hard.it would be hard though to make a new shroud cover.

How close are they meant to be mounted to the fins??

I dont understand why people dont use the factory shroud with a 16" fan set up on a thermostat so it turns off when on the highway. Wouldnt this make the most sense?

Sounds logical to me. This is what I have.

Have had no dramas with it during Summer, and it is not possible to have any dramas unless, the fan cannot flow enough air or, the thermo plays up.

I am sure the flow is fine, and I trust the thermo as much as I trust any other thermo switch in my cooling system.

El Bee

Which is why I already answered by saying I didn't think it hurt. I knew what you were getting at. I think the main reason, is its easiest just to hook up straight to the battery.

No worries. I'm sure it doesn't hurt at all. I wonder what an electric water pump would cost and how hard it would be to install.

hey guys

i got a 16" thermo mounted in my R32 GTS-t within the shroud...i deceded to put one in after i fried my engine 2 years ago and the original fan was cracked so i went the thermo...i can't vouch for any power improvements as my car was alwasys changing and never dynoed it to find out but i can say they do a good job of keeping the car cool...i only really have to turn it on if i am stuck in traffic for more than 10 mins or slow speed driving on hot days (like 30 and above) most days i dont even need to turn it on..i have it wired to a manual switch near centre consol.

bit hard to take pics of it in shroud but here's two pics

Aaron

post-8646-1140252401.jpg

post-8646-1140252444.jpg

i think people just need to remember standard car standard type temps but more power meens more heat so if your going to spend money on power ups {normaly $$$$} spend the extra {$} on temp control ie {oil coolers better radiator or fans etc

Was the kit/controller that you piggy backed from the stock sensors able to interact with the thermoswitch?Was it a thermo kit specifically made to run a thermoswitch?

Sounds like the go.

Getting the fan to fit under the cover shouldnt be that hard.it would be hard though to make a new shroud cover.

How close are they meant to be mounted to the fins??

The controller i made mounts inside the cabin where the fuses/diagnositic connector is....it has two led's on it a red and a green ....so when the ign is turned on the unit powers up(red led)and when it switches the fan on the green led lights up.....it has an input wire(from the temp gauge....(i snaffled in to it from the plug in the dash cluster)a positive,an earth and the output wire(to fan relay)so no added senders/thermoswitchs needed)I also used the original fan relay....so if you looked at the car....it all looks original.....i used EF falcon fans....even they look original!

I too run a 16inch daves graig thurmo fan inside the shroud my setup differs only in that i run a haltec ecu which is set to turn on the thurmo when the thurmo stat opens and runs till 5 degrees after it closesso it uses the engine temp sensers to maintain temp controll and had no probs with over heating even in traffic and only slightly up when dyno tuning

Cheers Peter

  • 7 months later...
The controller i made mounts inside the cabin where the fuses/diagnositic connector is....it has two led's on it a red and a green ....so when the ign is turned on the unit powers up(red led)and when it switches the fan on the green led lights up.....it has an input wire(from the temp gauge....(i snaffled in to it from the plug in the dash cluster)a positive,an earth and the output wire(to fan relay)so no added senders/thermoswitchs needed)I also used the original fan relay....so if you looked at the car....it all looks original.....i used EF falcon fans....even they look original!

I would like to hear more about this 'controller' you made....so basically it turns off / on when a certain resistance is reached at the temp guage???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...