Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl. just looking at getting some cams for my skyline. (r34GTT). just wondering what cam best suits my application? ive searched the forums already and come up with not much at all. Bass junky advised on the Tomei pon cam type A. just wanted other opinions on this and if cam gears would be neccessary or a good addition?both IN and EX? and also good upgraded set of brake pads.

my car currently has Turbo back exhaust, ARC front mount, when cams are bought ARC airbox/ shroud will be coming also, power FC, profec B spec II(for sale if anyone's interested) and will probably be high flowing standard turbine rather then upgrading.

Any info will be greately appreciated.

cheers

Maurice

Edited by ssslpr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106136-advice-on-cam-selection-for-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

Don't bother with cams unless/until you are upgrading the turbo.

The Tomei Poncam type B 260/260 are the best for my money although I don't know anyone with an R34 and the Type A. Put it this way, they don't destroy your idle or reduce driveability much so why not go as big as possible?

They are still street cams when it comes down to it, Tomei make the Procams for more full on situations.

I have 255 rwkw with a GCG highflow at 0.9 bar and these cams.

I don't think the cam gears are worth getting although if you want you can sacrifice some idle smoothness for early boost with stock turbo. I think this would equate to top end losses with bigger turbo.

i was told that the type A with a standard highflowed turbo woudl result in better response rather than the larger 260 which is more suited to an upgraded. i was told i would get the same power with these cames and highflow turbo?? hmmmm. sounds like more resaerch is needed. what about other brands?? anyone have any testimonials or heard anythign about other brands??

thanks for the input ABO.

Don't do that.  They don't help R34's.  It's been tested and proven.

What about R33s?

Been thinking about replacing my gears when I do the timing belt.

Edit: did search, found info :D

Well installation won't be an issue.... so it's just the cost of the part + delivery for me :P

Question for Bass and Abo; on a scale of 10, how would you rate this upgrade in terms of bang for buck? I know both of you probably did a whole lot of other stuff at the same time, but give it your best opinion

Cheers guys

S

I have very similar mods to Bass Junky too except for cams. Made 226rwkw on the initial tune, now making about 10-15rwkw more with boost control kit and Z32 AFM, call it 235-240rwkw.

Cams will be the next step for me, but they certainly weren't a priority. 10rwkw is probably a good "figure".

It's not just the extra 10kw.

I'm making over 240 rwkw for over 1500rpm.

It's a big fatr curve.

The stock cams fall over at 6000rpm.

the poncams are on song at 4500 right through to 8000.

See how flat the torque curve is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...