Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know about the ecu.But you can buy a Electonic hicas lock kit.Which dissengages the switch that activates the hicas.You also get shims that lock the arms in place.

I think the hicas unit works off of hydraulic fluid but im not sure if it is independant or if it has lines that lead from the front of the car/power assist.

Does any1 know.

So the r33 is electric.

can any1 confirm that notion.

Do you have a list of the differing hydraulic and electric hicas units!!

If so mine can be removed.

The only problem would be the arms that lead to unit.They would have to be locked again somehow.

Thanks Greg - you only lose 2kg????

Somebody was saying 20kg?? How much does the standard bar + electric motor weigh. Maybe it isn't worth doing for weight saving. Maybe for handling though..

I'm going to get a wheel alignment soon but need to replace front shocksfirst and thinking about the lock bar..

Thanks Greg - you only lose 2kg????

Somebody was saying 20kg??  How much does the standard bar + electric motor weigh.  Maybe it isn't worth doing for weight saving.  Maybe for handling though..

The R32's loose 20 kgs as their HICAS system is full hydrualic with heavy stainless steel solenoids and hoses and much larger hydraulic rear steering rack.

:unsure: cheers :)

Right.  So on the R33 the best you can hope for is about 5kg?

We have one of GTRGeoff's HICAS replacement bars for the project R33GTST. I hope to have timt to fit it this week. I will weigh what we take off and post it up.

:( cheers :)

I removed mine with one of GTRGeoffs lock bars, my guess is you save about 3-5kg but thats not what I did it for. The car is far more stable in high speed corners and seems far more stable under heavy braking (tested that on Tuesday at QLD raceway). Worthwile mod.

I have had no problems with low speed power steering getting heavy.

Thanks guys.

SK - If you could do that that would be great!

JC Marshall - did you keep the HICAS computer etc in the boot?

Yep, I just removed the HICAS fuse in the boot fuse box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...