Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per title really.

We got a RB26 to go in a R33GTR here, and its been bench dyno'd running Pectel T6 2000 managment and its now in the car, but not running as yet due to a few mods being done.

But what (if any) effects will not running the standard ECU and engine loom have on the 4wd system?

I thought it was a totally seperate entity with the ATTESSA ECU doing it all, so no effects when binning the standard ECU, but some say otherwise.

So whats the truth? And if there are changes, what mods needs to be done to make it work ok?

Cheers.

Stav

There are shared sensor inputs or signals between the ATTESSA and ECU computers. I know for a fact that TPS is one such signal as I had some issues ATTESSA a while back when I was running a single throttle body.

Study the electrical line diagrams from the manual and you will see what I mean.

ATTESSA needs a TPS signal, otherwise it goes into "error" mode.

Advanced Engine Management (Wolf 3D) has a "black box" add-on to provide the signal to the ATTESSA.

EASY MATE. the only wires needed to keep the atessa working is:

tacho (pin 7)

tps signal (pin 38)

need to splice this wire 56 (purple one) into pin 38 as most aftermarket ecus dont have a tps output for other things.

should take about 2 mins to do :)

cheeres :lol:

ps.. make sure you adjust the tps with the engine running to get .04 volts at the output (tps signal input) otherwise code 21 will pop up...

off topic a little bit sorry, but does anyone know if u can hook up the front torque gauge from a gtr onto a stagea series 1 which i dont know if it has the pin out of the attessa ecu or not?

ive got the tps signal hooked up and the tacho so it should work as per normal without the engine ecu and using an autronics smc?

is their anyway of telling if its working correctly without the front torque gauge?

cheers

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...