Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only reason why something went wrong is i tried pumping more boost into it

if i left it it would of lasted it went fine till now until that

Im sorry Jason, but you cant say that.

It didnt last, because it died. How/why it died is irrelevant. Fact is you cant say it lasted any loner than the 6-7 month trial.

When a stock motor pumps out 470rwhp for 2-3 years. Then you'll get closer to being able to claim reliable.

Many people have made big power. Many have not lasted long enough.

The average punter wouldnt class a year, or even 1.5 years reliable for a motor. I certainly wouldnt.

When i see a 550rwkw RB26/30 going after what, 3 years after street/massive circuit. Thats well on the way to a reliability claim.

And you can see that theres nothing wrong with pistons rods etc

Umm, again. You can see the tops of the pistsons. Wow.

The rods havent been tested, crank hasnt been tested. Need i go on?

Just looking at it with the naken eye is hardly decent proof or information that there is "nothing wrong"

550rwkw is a hell of alot of power, that's mid to low 9's territory. Are you sure that a circuit car is capable of that kind of power and uses it constantly on the circuit? Even the drag cars that make that kind of power have a relatively short lifespan, and have constant maintenance despite living for short 10 second squirts and dyno pulls. Not to mention that traction would put the car out of being competitive, well lack of traction anyway. And it would take an SPL or larger to make that power. The list goes on...

Hey my point is everyone has an opinion, and everyone is going to have a different view on things. At least give credit to Jason for

1/ Having a go with it

2/ Being upfront and direct about what is happening.

He could have not posted anything and quietly thrown another stock motor in, although I'm sure that different people would have approached this whole thread in a different manner.

At the end of the day it's another Skyline out there running, and be thankful that you didn't have to fork out anything to see the results... except maybe 10 hours of your life reading this ;)

I totally agree. Good on him for getting out there and loosing the attitude. I think ive said he deserves credit for the efforts already somewhere.

To go and make claims based on limited testing i think is dangerous for less informed forum users who can often be swayed very easily by threads such as this.

Im very pissed off at the moment

My race engine Has SNAPED a valve UNDER THE COLET AND RETAINER DROPING THE VALVE Bending it smashing the Head and Putting a hole through a New forged piston which has done 15 mins work of running in on the dyno.So much for a Race motor lasting.This just proves that ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN with any motor.I have organised a New Piston and Head for now.I carnt believe it happened.

I carnt blame the people who setup the Head either as SHIT happens.But still couldnt believe what i seen

Ill post photos tomorrow but looks like someone got a nail gun and shoot the Valve through the piston.

f**kEN GETS ME ANGRY AFTER 4 NIGHTS OF 16 HOUR SHIFTS OF WORK but yeah shit happens and like i said before Anything can happen so yeah

Anyways Thanks chris :P Ill talk to you soon or you comming down

Edited by MR331307

Shit can and does happen. :D

I wasn't going to post in this thread but... I feel like it. :P

It seems to me that the point of this thread and the exercise was to push the standard RB25 as far as it can go to see what the limits are.

He pushed it, he found the limits. His opinion therefore is that if he repeated the experience but stopped just before that last step that blew the motor, it would still be happily running and be an advertisment for what can be done with a stock RB25.

How much longer it would have lasted without that last step we will probably never know because he probably doesn't feel like doing it again for our benefit.

As mentioned above, that kind of power level comes with reliability sacrifices, no matter if it's a stock engine or a built one.

ps, the comment about heat in number 6 - I think the theory is that the extra 4% fuel in that cylinder should make it run a little cooler.

yeah

went BACKWARDS

did make no more power

To me the max power was made @ 18 psi

Any more was a waste.I think i should have backed the boost down earlier but i said who cares if it goes it goes and it did.

I wanna continue on this but need another motor cheap

i wanna try a NEO motor out if someone has a motor Minus Manifolds ETC just the bare motor with minimal KMS

while im waiting for my new engine head to come back.

Edited by MR331307
May look a little rough from the top.. But take the piston out and see if it looks anything like this??

And yes its number 6 piston from a Rb25 >_<

mmmm cracked and melted. Your username is somewhat appropriate lol.

A mate has a neo with low compression in no.3. Dunno if that's any use to you.

Yep he contact me

i just wanna know if its a head gasket or what

how many kms is on it

if its all good im getting it

i wanna crack a 9 with a standard motor.While im waiting for the new parts to come in AGAIN that is

Edited by MR331307

I think you should fix the problem you had with the motor you made 591hp and 10.8 cause it's not your everyday rb25.... i really think it was a freak motor and dont think you will be able to do it again with another standard donk thats just insane amounts of power.....

lol

We will have to wait and see

is that a dare is it

anyways if all goes well ill pickup a standard motor in 2 days and

be back there next week

if not

then yeah we will never know and just have to wait for my new motor

And ill post picks of WHY it lost COMP tomorrow

Edited by MR331307
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...