Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTST :)

I was about to say exactly the same thing.

MR331307

Good work for improving the times....but you still couldnt resist hey? Maybe leave the clown remarks at the door and people may show a little respect.

sorry champ SHORT fuse

lol

i am testing out this motor and trying to explain the progress to everyone and im left with blokes on here trying to put it down

fair enough its lasted maybe 3 months so fair but still not like ive treated it like a pensioners car.There are some really nice people on this forum and alot of keyboard warriors.

Ill update it as i get more progress out of the car.

OK

Wild 1 Motorsport is happy to say that the standard Rb25 motor has run

10.8 @ 128 MPH

Doing a 1.48 60" foot time and lifting the wheels in the air

Time for a cage and New safety Equipment

You can view some of the video Clips on www.wild1motorsport.com

Last run was using a 30 shot of gas Detuning to the engine to compensate.

We are trying to run mid to low 10 second passes out of the vehicle when it returns and then once this is achieved and if the engine is still running more nitrous and Boost to achieve a high 9 second pass.

Currently we have done a compression test and the engine is fine.Oil pressure is fine.

OK

Wild 1 Motorsport is happy to say that the standard Rb25 motor has run

10.8 @ 128 MPH

Doing a 1.48 60" foot time and lifting the wheels in the air

Time for a cage and New safety Equipment

You can view some of the video Clips on www.wild1motorsport.com

Last run was using a 30 shot of gas Detuning to the engine to compensate.

We are trying to run mid to low 10 second passes out of the vehicle when it returns and then once this is achieved and if the engine is still running more nitrous and Boost to achieve a high 9 second pass.

Currently we have done a compression test and the engine is fine.Oil pressure is fine.

Wheres the 10 sec vid? Those are 12 sec passes

i tried

MT 275/28/15 street tyres and the best i could get was 11.3 with a 1.7 60"

now im runnin

10/26/15 MT full slicks and i got a 1.48 60 " .Theres no way a manuel IRS car will hook up any good without full slicks under the rear.I have HKS drag shocks as well under the car.

The reason for the smaller diameter slicks is so i could cross the Line at a Higher RPM as with the street tyres i was only crossing the line at 6600RPM or so and now im crossing the line at 7200RPM.But i still need to be crossing the line at 7700 RPM.I might play around with the tune and try to get the power on a lil quicker

the car still boged down a bit of the mark so we are going to launch a bit harder next time and hold the car flat till the end and try to run mid 10`s.Once i have run more then 10 runs at 10.5 or quicker,Then its time for more NOS and More boost.

Edited by MR331307
Theres no way a manuel IRS car will hook up any good without full slicks under the rear.

Mark Jacobsen - 1.358 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3470lb car

Shane Crichton - 1.51 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3500lb car

Me - 1.66 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3240lb car

They're all IRS Jason and Mark and my cars are manual. I think you just need to persevere with them.

Awesome work on the 10 though, mate.

Adrian

Mark Jacobsen - 1.358 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3470lb car

Shane Crichton - 1.51 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3500lb car

Me - 1.66 60' - 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials - 3240lb car

They're all IRS Jason and Mark and my cars are manual. I think you just need to persevere with them.

Awesome work on the 10 though, mate.

Maybe i will need smaller diameter street slicks but anyway i wasnt gonna waste money on Street tyres.I wanted slicks.

How much power are the top 2 making

The top car Very good ill be more then proud of that

But i aint wanting to run 1.5,1.6 60`s(not putting you down or being a smartass)

i want 1.3,1.4 constant 60's without have the need to burn the clutch or do to many stupid things to launch.

With Slicks hold 7500,Drop Clutch & hold on

Later on once i am running consistant then i will try to run similar numbers with street tyres.

AND ADRIAN NO NEED TO BE JEALOUS AND GO ON ABOUT RUBBISH. Once the cage goes in ill be back for more

Edited by MR331307

Good work on the ET's and TS's so far, it's a matter of practise and improvement. It was never going to happen first time out.

almost 350 dyno runs

The problem is you have had 350 FREE dyno runs to get it right. How much would you charge a customer for 350 dyno runs? Even at $50 a run (which is cheap) that's $17,500. I think I would much rather spend my time and money on an RB30 with forged internals and still come out $10K in front.

:P cheers :(

PS, word of advice, you are promoting a retail business, it pays to treat you potential customers with repect.

Edited by Sydneykid

For starters

350 dyno runs were on for reasearch purposes.

if i had to dyno a vehicle it will only take around 10 dyno passes and around $400 costing.I have done reaseach in the motor to get it to last and so far i think shes doing fine.

I am trying to retain the standard skyline Engine Drivetrain as a RB30 Might be a similar block but still didnt come out of my vehicle.As well i think that the RB25 and RB26 Motors are a much better bottom end compared to a RB30.

Any ways

research is still going on and will update as i go

AND ADRIAN NO NEED TO BE JEALOUS AND GO ON ABOUT RUBBISH

Mate, I was trying to help you out and maybe offer a bit of advice. Obviously that was un-wanted and you have different goals. That's cool.

That's the end of my discussion on the subject. Good luck with your racing, i hope you run as fast as you want and do it safely.

I'm sorry I bothered.

Adrian

LINEMEUP i wonder what the rest of your business associates think about your attitude towards the public, because u dont show a very positive additude, and all u seem to do is bag people out and say they are not as good as you.

grow up ffs, u sound about 17 years old the way u act to other peoples comments.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...