Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

(R33 GTS-t Series 1, lowered, 19" rims)

I have noticed lately that my right hand side front tyre is rubbing really bad on the wheel arch when i turn sharp or the car is on a slope, it has been doing this for a while but its been really bad the past week.

Now, when i bought the car, the guy said the front suspension is adjustable... i do not know how to tell this!

When looking in the engine bay i obviously have the big cylinder-looking bulges either side where the shocks etc hide inside... and looking at the very top in the middle, theres a little bit sticking out with what looks like a groove for a flat-head screwdriver, and this has a red rubber thing around it with numbers on it, 1, 2, 3, 4 etc, i dont know jack about suspension and was wondering if this is where you adjust it, or something else? And was the guy i boughtthe car off just bull$hitting me when he said it was adjustable?

I was hoping that raising the front by 1cm or so would get rid of my tyre rubbing problem.

Sorry to sound stupid, but its technical ground which i have never crossed before...

ok the only way you can adjust the height on your car is with different springs or coilovers. you might have coilovers on the front of your car but i think you might just have damper adjustable shocks, can you take a pic of the wheel arch with the tyre off and the top of the strut towers in the engine bay. with coilovers they are height and damper adjustable, damper adjustable controls the rebound rate of the shocks which you can set on soft or hard or somewhere in between. here are a few pics to tell if you have coilovers on the front or not. the first pic is the threaded sleeve on the coilovers which adjusts the height. the red circle in the second pic is the damper adjustable control.

IMGP0135.jpg

IMGP0136.jpg

yep, to find height adjustment, look at the spring seat (the cricular platform that the spring sits on) and see if there is thread there

if there is thread, unlock the locking collar (if there is one) and then wind the spring seat down.

some coilovers dont have height adjustment at the spring seat, but have locking collars underneath and a helper spring though, but still, lower the collars and will lower the car, raise them and it raises the car

ill trow in a n00b question too.

if the coilovers are hight adjuable, how do you get eac side the same height? just measture between point on it? or isnt it that simple?

thanks

Clean teh collar with a rag and make a marking on the collar (with a magic marker) so you know how much you turned the collar. ie you turned teh collar 1/4 of a revolution. Do the same for the opposite shock. It the car was level to begin with, it will be level once lowered more.

  • 2 weeks later...

Mind if i throw in a noob question too!

If the damper adjustable is on top of the coilovers, how do you adjust the damper rate for the rears?

Are there any other ways instead of taking the coilovers off!

As for damper adjustment.

Am I to understand it starts from left to right.

I have JIC Coilovers and they have the adjustment in the top, driven by an allen key.

So soft is full left and it increases as it's turned clockwise, or is it a hit and miss deal?

Sorry maybe i shoulda made my question clearer.

If the damper adjustable is on top of the coilovers, how do get to the top of the suspension for the rears? I cant seem to get to it from the boot as there is the metal chassis around the area.

Is there a way of getting to the damper adjustable knob without taking the suspension off?

Sorry maybe i shoulda made my question clearer.

If the damper adjustable is on top of the coilovers, how do get to the top of the suspension for the rears? I cant seem to get to it from the boot as there is the metal chassis around the area.

Is there a way of getting to the damper adjustable knob without taking the suspension off?

Not all suspension is damper adjustable but those that are commonly have either an adjustable knob down low (near where it bolts on to a lower suspension arm) or on top like your fronts. To access this though (if there are no extensions) you will need to get under the parcel shelf which is where the top of the strut is bolted.

Or if you're really lucky and have the latest electronically adjustable ones that Tein, JIC, Cusco and several others are putting out, just push the button on the control unit.

cheers

Tip: To adjust the height of your coil-overs (if you have them), the easiest way to turn the collars is with a "C Spanner" (See attachment).

post-23673-1142150609.jpg

If one didnt come with the car, you can get them from most Motorcycle shops (Most bikes use the same form of adjustment for their suspension)

I tried all sorts of ways adjusting mine (hammer and flat head screwdriver etc).. The C-Spanner will save you heaps of time and energy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...