Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler With Inlet And Outlet On Same Side

Johnny Cash

By Johnny Cash,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
Posted

Hey fellas,

Just tapping into your brains again for some intercooler advice.

I've noticed most of the hybrid and copy kits have the pipe on the right hand side that goes half way over the engine and into the inlet manifold.

I was just wondering if an intercooler with inlet and outlet on the same side would be better on a GTS-T, as it would involve a lot less piping. Would theoretically have two benefits - less pipe (less lag), and no piping going over the engine (as opposed to traditional intercoolers with inlet and outlet on opposing sides).

Obviously on GT-Rs, you're better off with the traditional style cooler, but I figured with a GTS-T it would be a different story.

There's one on eBay that caught my attention:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

I'm thinking that's the way to go, but want your opinions.

Thanks again,

J.R.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

My bet it would be pretty restrictive despite their claims, and the cold outlet is right next to the hot inlet (and same goes for the core) so I'd be questioning its cooling efficacy. So just go with the tried and tested in/out on opposite ends..

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

the end tank design on the far end doesn't look the best for flow and the top pipe will end up pointing straight at the mount for your front bar reo.

I noticed they had an apexi looking core with a crossove type outlet which would be considerably better flowing but the down side is that you end up with 2 feet of extra piping compared to the regular across the top of the radiator method.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

There is some HKS cooler that uses your existing piping-holes on the right-hand side. The cooler comes with the rest of the piping, which includes a 180 degree turn. The return outlet on the left of the cooler turns around and travels below the core, back to the factory holes for piping.

The bend isn't terribly nice to have, but you don't need to hack your left-hand side to run pipes in and over your fan, and the cooler forces the air to travel the whole intercooler.

SKY 34 Mentor

SKY 34

Posted
Posted (edited)
My bet it would be pretty restrictive despite their claims, and the cold outlet is right next to the hot inlet (and same goes for the core) so I'd be questioning its cooling efficacy. So just go with the tried and tested in/out on opposite ends..

I agree with the cooling efficiency bit...I dun think it'll work as well at all....dunno if this is right..but..

I'm thinking if air were to enter from the bottom pipe (hot air rises?), it does not necessarily travel to the other end of the intercooler to get cooled and back again to go out from the top pipe...the air can just flow straigh from inlet up to the outlet...

Edited by SKY 34
Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, I think you're right SKY34, will have to go a conventional intercooler.

But I'm just wondering if the extra cooling you get from running a 'normal' ic is combatted by the ic pipe that has to run all the way over and around the engine to go to the intake manifold...

Just a thought.

hey Michael, can you send me the link for that?

How much, and who do I pay?

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

here is the link: http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f42804965

best bet is to contact- SAU Trader Slidewize Imports (as Zac buy stuff off yahooauction)

at the current price its 22,000yen (about $260 + shipping and other fees)

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
Posted

I have a trust cooler as pictured above and highly recommend them! I am making decent power 244rwkw and the cooler is not a restriction at all... they are not as big as the hybrid coolers but it all comes down to how much power you want to make...

The best thing about it is that the engine bay looks stock...

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mate, will do.

Lovin that cooler, says its for R31 RB20DET? Should that make a difference?

Either way, if I can get it to my door for around 300, it would definitely be worth it.

Even tho I'm broke :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • FRGTN1
      R34 Manual conversion Speedometer

      By FRGTN1 · Posted

      Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...