Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying Semi-slick Tyres In Brisbane

jmac

By jmac,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

jmac Rising Star

jmac

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Gonna try to track down some R-compound tyres for the next hillclimb and future trackdays... was just wondering if anyone had any feedback about good/bad places to buy them from in Brisbane?

At this point (after searching) it's coming down to the Dunlop D01J or DZ02G, or Bridgestone RE55, or maybe some Yokos. I know you can pick up the Dunlops from Qld Raceway but just wanted to hear people's experiences etc.

The sizes I'm after are front: 235/45R17 and rear: 255/40R17 (or maybe 265/40).

Also I have no idea what compound to go for - the tyres will be doing the Mt Cotton hillclimb and trackdays at QR only (5 lap stints), I don't plan to use them on the street except to drive there and back.

Thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107421-buying-semi-slick-tyres-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites
maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've bought D02G's from Qld Raceway before - no problems at all. Previously ran the Bridgestone RE55's which I think (in my opinion only) may be a slightly superior. Bridgestones you can buy from Tyretech.

If you wanted a tyre specifically for hillclimbs, I would look at the Toyo Proxes (R compound) available at plenty of places (bought mine at Keith 4 wheels) Extraordinarily good in short sprint events. At QR, they start to go off by about lap 3 or 4 and become too "squidgy" but would be superb for hillclimbs.

Edited by maccattack
hungry6 Experienced

hungry6

Posted
Posted

I got Dunlop DO1J on my street car, they're dot rated and I have been quizz in the past by the officers of the law, just point it out to them, that's all. I think D01j comes in 3 compounds soft/super soft/ chewing gum. just get the soft/or medium, as the chewing gum one only last about 1500-2000k on the street and alot less on the track. Very nice tyres , with plenty of grip/warning.

maccattack Proficient

maccattack

Posted
Posted
Cost to KMs, and wet weather would be two of the big ones.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

Id debat the thing with the wet weather. I guess it would depend on the tread patter to some extent. Some cars I have been in with them on, bit of rain, bloody hell, never again.

gtr660hp Experienced

gtr660hp

Posted
Posted

Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted
Ive just fitted 235 and 255 on my GTR Falken Azenis RT215-fine in the rain last night(I have over 400hp at wheels)-they are DOT approved and George at Tyrepower at Albion did them cheap as and got them in one day.

Can I ask how muck "cheap as" is?

They were 18" right ???

gtr660hp Experienced

gtr660hp

Posted
Posted (edited)

No sorry 17's cause mine is a 32GTR-one key to light weight is going 17in -less unsprung weight unless youve got super lightweight 18in rims(then there can be strength issues)

$1300 fitted and balanced-He even lowered my coil overs to suit for nothing-best people to deal with.

Others in Bris were quoting over $1400 without fitting

Edited by overev1
hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

the Azenis RT215 really isn't an R compound tyre. far too hard and lacks the outright grip of a true R compound. Better than a normal street tyre though and probably not a bad choice if you only have one set of rims, because they'll last alot longer than a proper R tyre on the street.

I've used the Azenis RT215, a Hankook Z2000 race tyre, Yoko A032R, and Bridgestone RE55S. The Azenis are about 1.5 to 2 sec slower at Mt Cotton than the proper R tyres.

Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road.

That is actually incorrect. The compound keeps you stuck to the road in the dry...the only thing the grooves are designed for is wet weather traction.

That is why drag tyres have no grooves, they don't race in the wet.

MountainRunner Mentor

MountainRunner

Posted
Posted

Probably it would be right to say that the grooves pump the water out in the wet so the tyre can make contact with the road. The compound is softer on R-Compound tyres so they do stick better in the wet. That's why wet weather tyres perrish in racing when the track drys out.

Russco Proficient

Russco

Posted
Posted
Talk to Craig at Hornibrook Tyres. He's the cheapest around for motorsport tyres, and he'll look after club motorsport competitors because he is one himself! He's a regular at Mt Cotton and motorkhanas etc. Tell him Harry put you onto him.

5 Basalt Street,

Geebung QLD 4030

Phone 3865 1072

Mobile 0401 474 745

I second this, just bought a full set from Craig, top bloke & good prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...